Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners

GERALD'S CORNER

By Gerald Roberts
Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
LSU AgCenter

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April 2015

4/2/2015

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I am receiving calls daily from gardeners who are frustrated with mother nature, not only because of the cool temperatures but also the consistent rainfall that we’ve been receiving. The month of March was not very kind to gardeners causing many to delay garden chores they had planned to address during March. I told many of them to not despair and that soon enough conditions would improve and even though we’ve fallen off schedule many of those gardening chores can still be performed. For example, if you haven’t completed your fertilization program on trees and shrubs that normally are fertilized in late winter or early spring, then do so as soon as you can.

I’ve received as many calls on recommended fertilizer rates for home lawns than I ever have and this was in spite of all of the rain fall. It’s just something about early spring that motivates home gardeners to want to fertilize their lawns. As you may recall, many times I have repeated the LSU AgCenter’s recommendations that the first application of fertilizer on lawns should be around the first or second week in April. This will allow time for the soil temperature to heat up and the root activity of warm season lawn grasses to increase so that the nutrients required for shoot and root growth will be absorbed. Applying fertilizer too early will stimulate brown patch disease in primarily St Augustine lawns that has a history of this disease, especially if this rainy weather pattern persists into mid spring. A couple of applications of a fungicide to address brown patch disease may help to slow it down, but if it continues to rain and night time temperatures are relatively cool, it could be an uphill battle. This is all the more reason to not fertilize too early, but rather think about targeting areas of your lawn that have weed problems.

Once our daytime temperatures average 60 degrees or above, herbicides like Ortho Weed B Gon/Weed B Gon Max and Fertilome’s Weed Free Zone are effective. Once the daytime temperatures reach the mid – high 80’s the injury from these two herbicides increases on lawn grasses. Herbicides can still be applied, but you’ll need to apply Celsius or MSM Turf, both of which are formulated to decrease the likelihood of turf injury occurring under high temperatures, and both of which can be applied during the summer months. 

Virginia buttonweed
is a very serious weed in many lawns in South Louisiana. It is a thick mat forming perennial broadleaf that comes back year after year once established. Leaves are opposite and flowers are white star shaped with 4 lobes. Virginia button weed produces by heavy seed production and stem fragments, both of which can start a new plant. No one application of any herbicide is going to control it. It’s going to take persistence with several applications of herbicides beginning in mid – late April through October. Apply Weed B Gon/ Weed B Gon Max or Weed Free Zone in the mid – late Spring (April & May) every 10 – 14 days and Celsius or MSM Turf every 4 – 6 weeks through the summer months from June until October. Some gardeners have sacrificed certain areas of their lawn by applying a herbicide containing glyphosate commonly known as roundup with spot treatments. Others have hand removed large mats of Virginia button weed and bagged or burned it. Virginia button weed can be spread by seeds floating in water and by lawn equipment moving from lawn to lawn. It may be a good idea for lawn maintenance crews to rinse lawn mowers between sites to remove seed and fragment of plants to reduce the spread of this weed that can be devastating to lawns. Nature has designed this weed to survive, it’s very low growing, it’s drought tolerant, it thrives in low or poorly drained areas, and it will out compete lawn grasses. So that is why especially if this weed is in a St Augustine lawn, the lawn should never be mowed shorter than 3 inches, or the advantage goes to the Virginia button weed. 

Another broadleaf weed though not as invasive or competitive with lawns grasses as Virginia button weed is a winter annual called Spur weed or Lawn Burweed, which is a low growing resembling miniature parsley. It reproduces by seed and is presently in lawns. It has sharp spines or stickers located in the leaf axils and are injurious to humans when stepped on with bare feet as it approaches maturity. It can be especially distressing to young children. Many people here in south Louisiana refer to these as sticker weeds and as the temperatures rise, it begins to mature reaching a height of 2 – 3 inches or more. Now is the time to control it. If you choose to dig it up do so now!! If you choose to apply a herbicide, apply one of the 4 way blends such as Weed B Gon or Weed B Gon Max or Weed Free Zone. The key is to control it before it matures. It will naturally begin to mature and decline with high temperatures because it is a winter annual, but if it is allowed to persist into late April and into May, it may be too late to apply a herbicide because by then the sharp spines will already have formed and even though you kill it what will remain is a dead plant with sharp spines which can still be injurious and painful. Control it now!!

Happy Gardening!!
Gerald P. Roberts
Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
LSU AgCenter, 1010 Lafayette Street, Suite 325, Lafayette, LA 70501 GRoberts@agcenter.lsu.edu Office (337) 291-7090 / Fax (337) 291-7099
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March 2015

2/27/2015

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A lot of calls are coming into the office relative to citrus fruit production in home landscape settings. Most of the questions center around what type of citrus is recommended and when is the proper time to plant. It is common knowledge among gardeners that the biggest factor to consider when making a decision to plant citrus is the fact that citrus are directly impacted by cold or freezing temperatures. It is important to note that the age, maturity, health, and type of citrus can influence the extent of the damage. A common saying among older gardeners is that sweet citrus fruit are more cold hardy than sour citrus fruit. Further research conducted by me by consulting the LSU AgCenter’s pamphlet called “Louisiana Home Citrus Production” indicates that the order of citrus in regards to cold hardiness is kumquats and satsumas are the most cold hardy – followed by sweet oranges, navel oranges, grapefruit, with lemons and limes being the least cold hardy. That is why satsumas are so popular in home landscapes followed by sweet oranges. Two of the most popular types of satsumas are “Brown’s Select” and “Owari.” Some sweet oranges that are popular are “La Sweet” and “Hamlin Sweet”. Washington Navel oranges are also popular.

The next question becomes when is the best time to plant citrus trees? Because of the susceptibility of citrus to cold or freezing temperatures it is common to wait until the month of February to plant citrus trees. The idea is that trees planted in February are less likely to be exposed to hard freezes that could severely damage or kill trees. An appealing aspect of citrus production is that once the fruit are mature they can be left on the tree and picked as needed unless there is an extended hard freeze prompting removal of the fruit from the trees.

Surprisingly I’ve gotten eight to ten calls from people that still have satsumas or sweet oranges on their trees and are asking is there any problem with leaving the fruit on the tree. I rarely recommend leaving satsumas or sweet oranges on trees past the month of January. Experienced citrus growers says that leaving fruit on the trees into February and beyond negatively impacts the next crop of fruit because it causes decreases in bloom, which translates into decreases in fruit. Needless to say, for those people who still have not picked fruit off of their trees, they need to pick them as soon as possible so as not to impact the next crop of fruit. Another factor is the warmer the temperatures become the more the quality of the fruit left on the tree may be diminished.            

As I ride around Lafayette Parish on some of my home visits to assess or evaluate landscape problems I’m noticing more improper pruning of crape myrtles. It is not uncommon for some gardeners or landscape maintenance professionals to severely lower the height of crape myrtle by pruning with pruning saws or even chain saws, thus the saying “Crape Murder!” Pruning of crape myrtle should primarily consist of removing any crossing or rubbing branches which should be removed at its point of origin. Any small growth such as suckers that sprout at the base of the trunk or water sprouts that come up on branches, should be removed with hand pruners or loppers. Anytime I see gardeners using a chain saw to prune crape myrtles it tells me that they’re probably going to employ some improper pruning techniques. As Master Gardeners you’ll need to not be shy about giving advice regarding proper pruning of crape myrtles. Improper pruning definitely destroys the natural character that makes crape myrtles so beautiful in south Louisiana landscapes. 

If you’ve ever noticed small pencil size holes neatly arranged in the bark of primarily oak trees but also occasionally on pecan trees, this is caused by a small bird called the yellow bellied sapsucker, a woodpecker that drills holes in the bark of trees. These holes penetrate the bark causing sugary sap to ooze which the sapsucker comes back to feed on, along with any insects that the sap may have attracted. The damage usually doesn’t threaten the tree and no control is recommended or necessary; however, since it is unsightly many gardeners call out of concern for the tree or because they would like to know what caused the holes. 

When buying pesticides be sure that you know what pest you’re trying to control so that you get the correct pesticide. If it’s a fungus disease then you need a fungicide!! If it’s an insect then you need an insecticide!! If it’s a rodent then you need a rodenticide!! Never buy a container of a pesticide larger than you can use within a year or two. I usually tell people that it’s highly possible depending on how it is stored that pesticides older than three years old may have lost most of its effectiveness. Most importantly read all label directions in terms of how to mix and apply. Remember the label is the law and it’s there not only for your safety but the safety of others and the environment!!            

As spring approaches and day and night time temperatures begin to moderate the temptation to fertilize our lawns begins to intensify. However, keep in mind that our lawns are warm season grasses, and until the soil warms its root system, much of the grass won’t be very active in absorbing nutrients. If lawns are fertilized too early, winter weeds that thrive in cool soils will absorb much of the fertilizer meant for the lawn. That is the problem with applying weed and feeds too early. Remember weed and feed materials are a combination of a fertilizer and a herbicide in the same bag. While it is okay to control weeds in late winter and early spring, it’s too early to apply fertilizer. The first application of fertilizer should be no earlier than the first or second week in April here in South Louisiana. Another factor is that as long as we’re having cool night time temperatures in late winter and early spring, the pathogen that causes brown patch disease in lawns is active (especially in St Augustine lawns) and can become very aggressive, especially if we experience a rainy spring. Fertilizing too early will aggravate or stimulate brown patch activity because of the nitrogen in fertilizer. 
HAPPY GARDENING!
GeraldP.Roberts                                                                                                                                                    
Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
LSU AgCenter 1010 Lafayette Street, Suite 325, Lafayette, LA 70501 GRoberts@agcenter.lsu.edu, Office (337) 291-7090 /Fax (337) 291-7099

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February 2015

2/2/2015

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Master Gardeners make important and valuable contributions to their community by working as volunteers through their parish LSU AgCenter Extension Service Offices. I’m always asked by people what type of people does it take to be effective as a Master Gardeners. My answer is generally the same and that is it takes someone who genuinely want to learn, someone with a willingness and desire to help others, and someone who is willing to commit to assisting the LSU AgCenter in educating their community by delivering horticulture information.

However, whether it be the willingness to learn, the willingness to help others, or the willingness to assist the LSU AgCenter it takes COMMITMENT!!! Just as the LSU AgCenter tries to honor its commitment to provide the most effective educational experience to Master Gardeners in Training, it is expected that when you sign up to become a Master Gardener that you not only honor your commitment to meet the requirements of the Master Gardener Class, but also to honor your commitment to complete your volunteer hours. I would go a step further and ask that each new Master Gardener look for an opportunity within LPMGA to get involved as a means of not only to continue to grow and learn but also to help the LPMGA in meeting its commitment to assist the LSU AgCenter in meeting its mission. We need everyone to make this work!!

While we do our best not to be too aggressive in making things mandatory, we hope that you place confidence in our dynamic Master Gardener Association by doing your part to make it work. I’ve always said that when everyone is willing to do just a little for the greater good, it makes everybody’s effort just a little bit easier.  I reach out to each of you individually and to our Master Gardener Group collectively and I ask that you make a special effort to become involved to a greater extent if you’re not already involved. Also as you spread the word about the Master Gardener Program and answer questions about the program, please emphasize to potential Master Gardeners that once they become certified Master Gardeners, their time and talents are very much needed. I think we all want to continue to grow in the area of horticulture and what better avenue to grow than to find experiences within LPMGA to facilitate that growth.

That brings me to another avenue that will create not only opportunity for your personal growth, but also enhance your opportunity as a Master Gardener to help educate others and also assist me with the high volume of horticulture calls that come into the Extension Office from our community. It would also give Master Gardener another option to add to or complete their volunteer hours.  I consulted with Mr. Miles Brashier who is currently serving as the LSU AgCenter’s State Master Gardener Program Coordinator and he feels this procedure creates a good situation for everyone involved, Master Gardeners, people in the community with horticulture interest, and the LSU AgCenter. In the past I was asked by several Master Gardeners that we give consideration to creating an opportunity for Master Gardeners  to connect with the Extension Office and an opportunity for those that would be interested in coming into the Extension Office to take horticulture related calls.

While we’re still working on the details, it will be strictly volunteer, it will be as simple as possible, and you will not be left on an island without support. Even though it can be very intimidating especially with requests for information that you may not be familiar with, you will have the option of telling the caller that you’ll call them back (if you’d like time to do some research), or that you will refer the call to the LSU AgCenter Horticulture Agent.  At the general membership meeting in February I plan to make a brief report regarding the details of how the process will work and answer any questions.  Before that time I will meet with our current President Heather Finley, and I’ll ask her to inform LPMGA’s Executive Board following our meeting, so that after our February general meeting everyone will be on the same page. I plan to follow up my initial discussion with Mr. Miles Brashier just to get his input so that we don’t do anything to create problems for you or the AgCenter.  As I told you’ll at the January general meeting, I’m excited as we begin a new year and looking forward to a very productive year that will continues to  enhance the credibility of LPMGA !!!

As you know, the optimum time for transplanting trees and shrubs here in South Louisiana is late Fall through Winter. That means that the month of February is the last optimum month for transplanting trees and shrubs in our area. When we use the word “optimum” we mean that time frame that enhances a plants ability to survive, become established, and reach it’s productive potential. The reason why we emphasize the dormant period is because trees and shrubs transplanted during this time experience less transplanting shock while dormant which greatly enhances its chances of survival, by allowing the root system to begin expanding and becoming established which helps it to survive a hot and sometimes dry first summer following transplanting.

The second issue that I’d like to discuss is the recommendations when actually performing the task of transplanting. The first is select a well - drained area, also an area that is going to provide the sunlight requirements of the plant. The second is the planting hole itself which if not done properly can lead to rot problems because of our soil type, high water table and the poor internal drainage that exist in some areas. Everything can be done right in terms of selecting the right plant, placing it on the right site, and transplanting it correctly but if the drainage is poor especially during periods of heavy rainfall, water sitting around the root system will greatly affect the plants ability to survive because of high susceptibility to root rot.

One of the main reasons I see that contributes to poor plant performance is planting depth or planting too deep. When placing the plant in the transplanting hole the top of the root ball should be even with the surrounding soil or the existing grade. Anytime the top of the root ball falls below the surface of the surrounding soil there is potential for problems. The width of the transplanting shrub should be twice the width of the root ball.

Finally the only the existing soil  should go back in the hole as a backfill once the plant is in the hole.  It is no longer recommended that soil amendments be added to existing soil. There is research to indicate that the roots system may be reluctant to expand beyond this amended soil which could lead to delayed establishment.

Happy Gardening!!

Gerald P. Roberts

Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
LSU AgCenter
1010 Lafayette Street, Suite 325
Lafayette, LA 70501
GRoberts@agcenter.lsu.edu
Office (337) 291-7090
Fax (337) 291-7099
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January 2015

1/1/2015

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Hello Gardeners,

Pruning is one gardening job that is often neglected because gardeners are not exactly sure what to do. There is a great deal of confusion about how to prune, when to prune, and even why pruning is done. As a result, pruning is often delayed until radical and extensive pruning is required. Now is an excellent time to evaluate your landscape for pruning that needs to be done, since many plants can be pruned now through February. Hand pruners are your best tool. The bypass cut or the scissor type pruners are the most useful. Anvil-type pruners don’t quite make as clean a cut and have the tendency to crush rather than cut cleanly. Use lopping shears to prune small trees or shrubs with diameters up to one inch. For plants with branches more than an inch thick, use a pruning saw. Applying wound sealants or pruning paints to pruning cuts are no longer recommended. In fact, it is felt that these materials may even interfere with the natural process of wounds’ natural callusing. That is why it is very important to make proper pruning cuts so that they will heal properly. Dr. Alex Shigo, a plant pathologist with the USDA, did research years ago that changed our thought process on pruning techniques and also changed the recommendation of how tree wound dressings, pruning paints, or sealants affected wounds. If you are interested in reading more about Dr. Shigo’s work, do a Google search; along with great information for thought, there are illustrations on how to make proper pruning cuts.

A wide variety of plants can be pruned during the winter and early spring, including most woody plants such as trees, shrubs, hedges, screens and foundation plantings that are not grown for their flowers. Both evergreen and deciduous plants can be pruned.

Avoid extensive pruning of spring flowering trees and shrubs (those that bloom from January through April), such as Japanese magnolia, star magnolia, silver bell, parsley hawthorn, Taiwan flowering cherry, quince, azalea, Indian hawthorn, mock orange, spirea, banana shrub, wisteria and camellia. These plants have already set their flower buds for spring bloom, so any pruning done now will reduce the quantity of blooms.

On the other hand, summer flowering trees and shrubs such as crape myrtle, vitex, althea, oleander and abelia, don’t have flower buds set on them now. These can be pruned during winter and early spring because their flower buds will bloom on new growth produced in spring and summer.

Certain shrubs, such as gardenia, hydrangea, some old garden roses, and climbing roses, seem to fall in a separate category because they bloom in early summer, so extensive pruning from now until they bloom will greatly reduce or eliminate flowering. Delay any necessary pruning for gardenia, hydrangea, some old garden roses, and climbing roses unit immediately after they bloom. One example of a poor pruning technique that we see too often on crape myrtles is commonly referred to as “crape murder,” where the tops of crape myrtles are sheared off similar to what is referred to as dehorning. This improper technique produces an abundance of new growth which produces week stems that break and bend when loaded with blooms. Another example of improper pruning is when azaleas are pruned in the late summer or fall which amounts to removing buds that should have been the next crop of blooms.

Normally, Irish potatoes are planted in the garden from now until mid-February. Cut seed potatoes (usually available at nurseries or feed stores) into pieces about the size of an egg. Make sure each piece includes at least one eye. Allow the cut seed pieces to heal a few days, and then plant them in well – prepared rows or beds about 12 inches apart and four inches deep. Irish potatoes usually reach maturity and are ready to harvest in May. Recommended red potato varieties include Red LaSoda, LaRouge, and Fontenot. White varieties recommended are Norchip, Kennebec, and LaBelle. Usually, the Red LaSoda and Kennebec varieties are readily available this time of year.

Pansies and other cool season bedding plants may bloom lsparcely during mid-winter, but blooming should increase again in late winter and early spring. If the foliage is a good green and plant seem to be growing well, you shouldn’t need to fertilize now. Pansies are heavy feeders , if the foliage is even slightly pale and if the growth is less vigorous, fertilize with a 20- 20-20 soluble fertilizer, according to label directions, every two to three weeks until the color and vigor improves.

Seeds of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants should be started now through early February in trays in sunny windows, hotbeds, and under lights or in a greenhouse for transplanting into the garden in spring. Many gardeners don’t have the facilities to properly grow transplants from seed. Providing enough light is generally the biggest factor.

Whenever practical, continue to deadhead cool-season annuals such as pansies, snapdragons, and dianthus to keep them blooming through spring.

Vegetables to plant in January include beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onions, radish, shallots, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnips.

HAPPY GARDENING
Gerald P. Roberts Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator LSU AgCenter

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ADENDUM ON WINTERING TROPICALS

12/4/2014

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Remember when we’re talking about freeze/cold injury, we are referring to those plants that are growing in south Louisianan landscapes that are genetically susceptible to cold injury whenever temperatures fall below 32 degrees. Keep in mind that one of the factors that impacts the extent and degree of injury is not only that the temperature, but the length of time it remains below freezing. Anytime temperatures fall below freezing, susceptible plants are at risk of injury; however, the longer the temperatures remain below 32 degrees, the more likely and greater the injury. If the temperature falls below 32 degrees for two hours, damage will occur, yet it will be less severe than when the temperature remains below 32 degrees for six to eight hours.

When we talk about plants in our southern landscapes that are susceptible to cold injury, consider herbaceous tropicals such as elephant ears, birds of paradise, cannas, gingers, philodendrons, etc. These plants have underground rhizomes, bulbs, corms, tubers, etc. The above ground portions of these plants are mostly soft tissue (herbaceous), and these plants are more tender than woody tropical like hibiscus, lantana, or angel trumpets. We can do some things such as covering plants, but if it gets cold enough, the above ground portions of all of the tropicals will be damaged even though we cover them. One thing that we can do to enhance protection to herbaceous tropicals with underground tubers, rhizomes, bulbs, corms etc. is to mulch well to protect the parts of these plants that are in the ground. The mulch adds insulation to protect and reduce injury so that even when the tops are killed, we can possibly save the plants. Since the ground usually doesn’t freeze during our winters, mulch provides some added protection. If both the tops and roots are injured by freezing temperatures, we may lose the plants.

Finally, woody tropical plants such as angel trumpets, hibiscus, lantana are more cold hardy than herbaceous tropical plants — as I mentioned above. All tropical can benefit from mulching to protect roots, but it’s more critical to herbaceous tropicals because they are considered soft tissue compared to woody or hard tissue tropicals.

Anytime temperatures drop into the mid-twenties or below, it is considered a “hard freeze.” If it remains this low for two hours, there will be damage, but more severe damage occurs if the hard freeze last for four, six, or eight hours. Eight hours or more are particularly damaging.
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December

12/4/2014

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Hello Gardeners,

This month I am covering several topics of interest based on phone calls and information received from horticulture specialist with the LSU AgCenter. The fact that mother nature has sent us an early reminder of winter has prompted many calls on topics of plant protection in the landscape. Lack of preparation or plans causes one of the biggest issues that I see that sends many gardeners into a panic when freezing temperatures are predicted. Every gardener should have protection plans in place when herbaceous tropical or woody tropical plants grow in the landscape when those plant that are not able to survive predicted low temperatures.

You may recall earlier information regarding plants and degree of cold hardiness or cold tenderness, the length of time that plants are exposed to freezing temperatures usually determines the extent of injury. Plants exposed to temperatures in the mid – 20’s, for 4 hours, will sustain less damage than if exposed to the same temperatures for 8 hours. Whenever plants are covered with some type of fabric while it is raining, if it freezes the weight of the fabric can damage plants; support in the form of three simple, wooden stakes will help. If using plastic to cover plants, it will shed water and weight is not a problem; however, removing the plastic or venting the plastic on sunny days is important to prevent injury to plants from heat buildup. Additionally when covering plants, drape the cover over the entire plant until it touches the ground, then anchor the covers with pins , bricks or other heavy objects. This will be more effective than covering the plant and tying off the cover before it touches the ground. It is felt that, especially when there is bare soil beneath the plant, heat is absorbed during the day and released at night.

For this reason, it is recommended that the ground beneath citrus trees be left bare during the winter months instead of being mulched. Bare soil absorbs heat and releases it later, and the heat release can make a difference in the degree of damage during periods of freezing temperatures. With citrus trees, remember it’s important to protect the graft union located on the lower trunk. This graft union can usually be identified by a slight swelling just below the regular trunk and a few inches above the soil line. The graft union can be wrapped with old cloth material, foam, mulched with leaves, pine straw or any material that can serve as insulation. Even if the top of the tree killed as long as any part of the trunk above the graft union survives, sprouts will be capable of producing quality fruit. If, however, the graft union or areas above the graft union doesn’t survive, sprouts that are produced below the graft union near the soil line usually will be wild rootstock which will not produce quality fruit. Although cold , dry winds can dry out leaf tissues and cause brown edges, plants don’t feel wind-chill. When low temperatures are predicted, focus on the actual temperatures rather than wind-chill. When weather forecasts predict that the actual temperature is getting down to 38 degrees with a wind-chill of 25, you don’t have to be concerned about a freeze.

Prune off any freeze damage or injury to gingers, cannas, philodendrons, or other herbaceous tropical. Placing between four and six inches of mulch such as pine straw around the base of plants will help protect roots and rhizomes. Move tender container plants indoors on nights when temperatures are predicted to be in the low 30’s or lower to prevent damage. Leave them inside in a sunny window or place them back outside when the freeze is over.

Many garden chemicals are water based and can be destroyed by freezing. Those loss of chemicals can be expensive and spilled pesticides can create dangerous conditions. Keep chemicals in locations that don’t freeze, and if there are children in the house those chemicals should be stored safely (preferably in a locked location).

Fall tomatoes ripen poorly in when temperatures are cool outside. Don’t wait for them to turn red before you pick them. As soon as fruit start to turn whitish or pink, harvest them and place them inside at room temperature until they turn red. Light is not necessary for ripening. Harvest any green fruit of reasonable size if a freeze is predicted, and use them in your favorite green tomato recipes. For citrus trees, any time freezing temperatures are predicted below the upper 20’s, all fruit should be harvested.

November through March is a good time to plant pecan trees. The more resistant varieties such as Sumner, Candy, and Elliot are recommended. Elliot is the top choice for disease resistance for home gardeners! When we refer to disease resistance in pecan varieties, we are primarily referring to Pecan Scab: a fungus disease that severely impacts the quality of nuts. Also, remember that resistance doesn’t mean immunity!! Harvest broccoli when the largest buds in the head are the size of the head of a kitchen match. Don’t focus on the overall size of broccoli head itself, as that is not an indication of when the broccoli is ready for harvest. If you begin to see yellow flowers you’ve waited too long. If temperatures in the mid 20’s are predicted harvest mature heads of broccoli; even though the plants are hardy, the heads are susceptible to freeze when the temperatures fall to 25 degrees or below.

Varieties of certain shrubs such as azaleas, nandinas or junipers may develop a burgundy tint to their foliage during cold weather. This is normal and no cause for concern. They will turn green in the spring.

Bed preparation is the key to long-term landscape success. Raised beds are almost essential in our area for successful landscape plant establishment because of our soil type and our poor internal drainage. A raised bed at least 6-8 inches deep can be enclosed with decorative bricks , concrete edging, landscape timber, or railroad ties. Chemically treated wood is safe to use around ornamental plants. A raised bed doesn’t necessarily have to have a physical border or edge. If properly prepared and mulched when completed, the soil should hold in the bed and not wash away even in heavy rainfall.

One method of bed preparation that is used at the Hammond Research Station whenever annual bedding plants, herbaceous perennials, or small shrubs are planted is the “kill, dump, rake, and plant method.” Kill the area you wish to plant with glyphosate herbicide, repeat in 10 to 14 days to kill any lasting vegetation. Obtain good landscape bed builder soil from a reputable dealer, dump this soil over the area where vegetation was killed. Then rake and smooth bed to an average depth minimum of 6 inches. Ideally wait for a rainfall to settle the soil prior to planting. It seems to be easier to lay the mulch down on the bed, then plant into it instead of mulching after planting.

HAPPY GARDENING !!!!

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November 2014

11/1/2014

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PictureRabbit Eye Blueberries!
Hello Gardeners,

Fall is an excellent time to enjoy gardening activities! With the arrival of cooler temperatures comes the ideal time to begin planting cool season annuals for winter and early spring colors in the landscape. One of the issues we sometimes have to cope with in the Fall is a lack of rainfall. Realize that it has been couple of weeks since we’ve received appreciable rainfall. Transplanting cool season annuals without adequate moisture is going to cause plants to get off to a slow start, that delays establishment. During dry periods, supplemental watering is highly recommended for root system establishment. Slow deep watering is a lot more effective than shallow watering. Additionally, adding a water soluble fertilizer will aid in critical root system establishment. It is also recommended that cool season bedding plants be mulched as soon as they are planted. Mulching helps to control weeds and also conserve moisture.

Along with temperature moderations comes the problem with Brown Patch Disease. The pathogen that causes brown patch disease is Rhizoctonia solani. Conditions that usually prompt brown patch disease are cool temperatures and moisture, yet the fact that we’ve had a dry weather pattern doesn’t seem to be hampering this disease in lawns. I’m receiving numerous calls, daily,regarding brown irregular patches in St Augustine, Centipede, and Zoysia lawns. It seems like St Augustine lawns are the most susceptible; although, all warm-season lawn grasses can be affected. We must also realize that if our weather pattern changes from dry to wet, we can expect the disease to become more aggressive. According to Dr. Ron Strahan, in order to suppress or slow down the spread of this disease in lawns, homeowners have the option of applying fungicides. Make two broadcast applications about 14 days apart. Several fungicides are labeled for lawn applications including Fertilome’s F – Stop ( active ingredient myclobutanil ), Scott’s Lawn Fungicide ( active ingredient thiophanate methyl ) and Heritage ( active ingredient azoxystrobin ). These fungicides are effective. While Heritage has been most effective, it is also the most expensive. Follow the label directions in terms of timing and rate of applications. Because brown patch disease can be active all winter and into the spring, a broadcast application of a fungicide next March may be helpful. However, if a rainy weather pattern develops and moisture is consistently present, brown patch will be much more aggressive.

I am also getting calls from homeowners regarding whether home lawns can benefit from an application of a fertilizer to winterize their lawns. There are those who believe that adding potash to lawns will help to increase winter hardiness which would allow the lawn to withstand cold injury and recover quicker in the spring. First, we must realize that our winters are not long and harsh enough to severely injure lawns. Secondly, many of the winterizing fertilizers are too high in nitrogen which could lead to decreased hardiness by promoting growth and also increasing the lawn grass’s susceptibility to brown patch disease. The LSU AgCenter recommends the application of potash to warm season lawns at this time of the year only if a soil test indicates low potassium. If so and a homeowner chooses to add potash, it should be in the form of 0-0-60 which is a fertilizer formulation only containing potash.

Now I will address bamboo and blueberries.
Utilizing bamboo for screening purposes in residential lawns can prove to become a problem because of the invasive nature of bamboo as it spreads and grows. Every year, I receive calls from homeowners who have questions about controlling bamboo in their yards that are encroaching from bamboo that neighbors have planted. Before planting bamboo, do your research before making a decision. Bamboo is available as running types and clumping types, with the running types being the most invasive. In fact, it is not recommended that the running types be planted unless bamboo barriers are installed at the time of planting.

The first fruit plant to be named as a Louisiana Super Plant is the Rabbit Eye Blueberry ( Vaccinium ashe ) which is a dual purpose shrub, native to Louisiana. Blueberries require an acid soil similar to azaleas, camellias, and gardenias. The best performing blueberries in Louisiana are the rabbit eyes which do well across the State. Some popular varieties are Climax,Tifblue, Brightwell, and Premier. Remember more than one variety should be planted to ensure adequate pollination.

Finally, if you notice that certain plants are showing signs of leaf spot or leaf drop, there is no reason to be concerned about applying fungicides. This occurs among pecans, oaks, figs, and magnolias trees. Among the broadleaf evergreens often affected are gardenias, citrus, azaleas, and hollies. This is common at this time of the year and there is no reason to be concerned.

Happy Gardening!!!Happy Gardening!!!Happy Gardening!!!

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October 2014

10/1/2014

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PictureVirginia Button Weed
Hello Gardeners,

This summer was hot, but instead of being hot and dry we experienced several rainy weather patterns that were welcomed by most gardeners. Instead of having to provide supplemental water for lawns, gardens and landscape beds, timely rains kept this practice to a minimum. However, there are always two sides to every coin. This summer was no exception. The down side was that many weeds also benefited from timely rainfall, and as a result weeds – especially in home lawns This summer was hot, but instead of being hot and dry we experienced several rainy weather patterns that were welcomed by most gardeners. Instead of having to provide supplemental water for lawns, gardens and landscape beds, timely rains kept this practice to a minimum. However, there are always two sides to every coin. This summer was no exception. The down side was that many weeds also benefited from timely rainfall, and as a result weeds – especially in home lawns have vigorously grown. Beginning about mid-summer, I began spending a lot of time identifying lawn weeds and control recommendations. For this month's article I will focus on the prolific growth of Virginia Button Weed. Virginia Button Weed is a low growing perennial broadleaf weed, characterized by small green seed capsules and white star shaped flowers. The fact that it is low growing allows it to form an almost a solid mat that will choke and out compete lawn grasses, including St Augustine, Centipede, Zoysia, Bermuda and other warm season turf grass. Mother nature has designed this weed to survive. It thrives in moist or low poorly drained areas of the lawn. It is also very drought tolerant. Even when other lawn grasses are under stress from drought, Virginia Button Weed seems to thrive. Being such a low growing weed that hugs the ground, we cannot ignore that when we mow St Augustine grass lower than 3 inches, we place the grass at a competitive disadvantage with the Virginia Button Weed.

The question that always comes up from gardeners is why is this weed so hard to control once it becomes established. The first thing we need to realize is that it is a perennial weed; it will return year after year, becoming more established if some type of control method is not applied. Additionally the plant has an extensive root system which develops underground rhizomes that can be found several feet deep into the soil. It also reproduces not only by seeds which are produced above and below ground, but each piece of stem or root can also produce roots. Because it has what is referred to as a prostrate growth habit, lowering mowing height to kill it will not work.

Virginia Button Weed is one of the most difficult to control weeds in turf grass, leading to a ranking by Mississippi State as its worse lawn weed and Tennessee Extension Agents describes it as "one of the most difficult broadleaf weeds in turf." Thankfully Dr. Ron Strahan of the LSU AgCenter dedicates a lot of his time and research evaluating methods of control and evaluating the effectiveness of herbicides against this difficult- to-control weed. Hand removal is often ineffective because when pulling the plant it breaks into pieces and any piece of root, stem, or rhizome that remains in the soil can produce a viable plant. Compound that with both above and below ground seeds and you start to get the picture. When hand pulling care must be taken to remove as much of the plant roots as much as possible. Discard or burn every part of the plant that is removed. Then this must be followed up with inspections every couple of weeks of the area to remove any young plants that emerge.
 
The herbicide control program that has proven most effective, according to Dr. Ron Strahan, is a combination of Ortho Weed B Gon or Fertilome Weed Free Zone plus two additional options. One is MSM Turf; the other is Celsius. The first two products, Ortho and Fertilome, can be found at retail garden. Both are four-way blends of herbicides for homeowner use. These homeowner herbicides are primarily targeting broadleaf weeds in lawns. It should be noted, however, that even though these herbicides are formulated not to damage turf grasses, when applied to turf grasses when daytime temperatures are 85° degrees and above, turf injury (yellowing) may occur. Even though the turf usually recovers, it still may be objectionable to some homeowners. The other two herbicides, MSM Turf and Celsius, are both effective on Virginia Button Weed but less likely to cause turf injury when applied to turf when temperatures are 85° degrees and above. Both of these herbicides are considered commercial herbicides and will need to be obtained at outlets that stock commercial products. Because of the Ortho or the Fertilome product caveat against 85° degree temperature and above, it is better to use them in spring before temperatures get hot. Once temperatures rise to the mid 80's or above, either MSM Turf or Celsius should be applied. So the spraying schedule should be:

• April – May before daytime temperatures rise above 85° degrees — apply either Ortho Weed B Gon or Fertilome Weed Free Zone at 2 ounces per gallon of water. Make two to three applications 10 to 14 days apart.
• Beginning in June or once daytime temperatures rises above 85° degrees – apply either MSM Turf or Celsius ever four to six weeks until mid - October and follow all label directions for rates on these two products.

If the above herbicide spray program is followed from Spring to Fall, this should significantly weaken and reduce the infestation of Virginia Button Weed. Dr. Ron Strahan recommends that once we get deep into the Fall, hand pulling the Virginia Button Weed and discarding the material will significantly reduce the seed numbers which will reduce the number of plants that will sprout the following spring. Even though Virginia Button Weed is a very hard weed to control, I believe that determination and persistence will reward your efforts. I would just like to remind you that anytime you use any pesticide in a manner that is not consistent with its label, you are breaking the law. Always follow all label directions in the use of any pesticide. Remember the label is the law and it is for your safety, the safety of others, the safety of pets and to lessen the impact on the environment.

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September 2014

9/1/2014

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Picture
Hello Gardeners,

This has been a tough year for lawn grass in Lafayette Parish and South Louisiana. I received numerous calls from homeowners concerned about the poor performance of their lawns, especially St. Augustine and Centipede grass. Upon evaluation of these lawns, I found many that had areas with two to three inches of thatch. Thatch is an accumulation of organic matter, primarily dead leaves and stems that cause serious problems in lawns. If a lawn feels spongy when walked upon, that often suggests a thatch problem. Thatch accumulates when organic matter accumulates faster than it can decompose. The roots of the lawn grass will grow into the thatch which can lead to an increase of insect and disease problems. The reason why many of the St. Augustine and Centipede lawns struggled this growing season relates to the unusually cold winter and cold injury because roots growing in the thatch were more susceptible to cold injury than the roots that would have been growing in soil. A thatch problem in a lawn has to be addressed by dethatching with either a motorized thatching machine or a dethatching rake. Removing thatch should be done in early to mid-April to allow an application of fertilizer. Removing thatch shocks the grass, so a fertilizer application is recommended in order to help the lawn grass to recover. The final issue with thatch is that it remains wet when rain comes frequently, but when the thatch dries it gets extremely dry. Neither situation is good for lawn grass.

One of the most common diseases of warm season turf grasses in Louisiana is Large Patch (also called Brown Patch). Every growing season, I get numerous calls from concerned gardeners regarding dead areas in their lawns. Brown Patch disease primarily occurs when night time temperatures begin to consistently drop below 70 degrees — in the fall, late winter and early spring. Since moisture also promotes Brown Patch activity, periods of rain make the disease spread rapidly. While brown patch can affect all warm season lawn grasses, it is usually more prevalent in St. Augustine lawns. The symptoms usually begin as a small irregular patches of brown areas in the lawn. With mild temperatures and rainfall these areas can enlarge rapidly. Once these areas of the grass are weakened and thinned by brown patch, weeds begin to invade. If a lawn has a history of brown patch disease, a couple of fall applications of fungicide can limit the impact of Brown Patch. Once conditions favor disease development, it is recommended that fungicide applications begin. For this area, that first application should be made between mid and late September, followed by a second application mid to late October. If conditions remain favorable for disease development into November and December, additional fungicide applications may be necessary. Since many fungicides labeled for lawns will have activity on brown patch, homeowners should be able to find these fungicides at retail nurseries and garden centers as well as feed and seed stores. According to Dr. Ron Strahan, Lawn & Turf Specialist with the LSU AgCenter, the two most effective fungicides for addressing brown patch problems in lawns are fungicides containing azoxystrobin or thiophanate methyl. If brown patch is not visible and the homeowner wants to be proactive, then granular fungicides are recommended. If however brown patch has already been identified in the lawn, the liquid fungicides applied as a spray are most effective. If we have a mild winter where the lawn does not go fully dormant, it is possible that brown patch will be present throughout the winter months and into the spring. If that happens, then homeowners may want to consider applying several applications of fungicides through winter and into the spring.

Finally, I am also getting calls from homeowners who are asking for fertilizer recommendations for their St. Augustine lawns. According to Dr. Strahan, St. Augustine responds to three applications of fertilizer annually: in mid-April , mid –June and Mid- August. In my opinion, it is now too late to fertilize St. Augustine lawns. Fertilizing now, especially with a fertilizer containing nitrogen, can aggravate brown patch disease. It can delay dormancy which could make St. Augustine lawns more susceptible to cold injury. There are fertilizers available called winterizing fertilizers that can be applied in fall, but here in South Louisiana if a homeowner decides to apply a winterizing fertilizer, it should not contain any nitrogen (N), it should contain primarily potassium (K).

Happy Gardening!!!Happy Gardening!!!Gerald P. Roberts

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AUGUST 2014

8/3/2014

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Since I’m increasingly getting request from homeowners to evaluate the overall health of shade trees and to give an opinion as to whether a tree or trees poses a safety threat or has or will become a liability I thought I would focus on preparing trees for hurricane season. As the heart of the hurricane season approaches most homeowner are fully aware of the value of trees in home landscapes. From providing shade to attracting wildlife there is no doubt that trees add value to our property. However, keep in mind that as much as trees can be valuable additions to our property, trees can also can pose a threat especially during a storm such as a hurricane. When high rain and wind accompanies a storm it adds weight and stress to large limbs. As winds causes these branches to flail especially those wet from rain it increases the probability that large limbs may break. Additionally trees that are structurally defective as in an unbalanced canopy (70% or more of the canopy is on one side of the tree), these trees are prone to being uprooted especially during period of prolonged rainfall which saturates the soil which usually is associated with hurricanes. Homeowners should also think about depending on the size of a tree not only how it will affect their property but potentially the property of neighbors. There are times when good neighbors will reach an agreement to share the cost of removing a large tree that is a threat to both properties despite the fact that it’s on only one neighbor’s property. This is an example of cooperation and good judgment between neighbors that realize both has a lot to lose if large limbs or the tree itself falls damaging property. Any final evaluations or pruning or tree removal should be done by a State Licensed Arborist, who is also insured.

In terms of what steps to take it is as simple as going to the LSU AgCenter’s web site and type in “ Hire an Arborist”. Information will be available to guide you in making an informed decision regarding hiring a licensed professional. My advice is never to be in a rush, get a least 3 estimates, and take the time to call the insuring agent to make sure that the Arborist’s insurance policy will be current during the time the work will be performed. For those who may be considering doing tree work themselves, just be aware that this is serious work and the potential for accidents are very high.

I’d like to provide you with bit of information that you should consider when evaluating the trees in your landscape. These are just a few tips on what to look for when deciding if a tree poses a threat. When I get calls from people telling me that they have a tree on their property that is giving them cause for concern the first question I ask is where is the tree located in terms of its proximity to their house or another significant structure? With trees it’s about location!! Even if a tree is showing serious defects, if it’s located in an area where it poses no threat whatsoever to any structure or a threat to life such as people, pets, other animals, then there is no sense urgency. However, if the opposite is tree and I love and value trees significantly, no tree is worth the threat of it destroying a home, property or causing bodily harm to people or animals.

What are some of the outward signs that are good indicators that a tree or trees may be in a state of decline or that the tree is being or has been structurally weaken? Trees with trunks showing signs of significant decay, as indicated by a hollow or wound that shows rotted wood or is oozing a discolored and or foul smelling liquid. This could be a definite sign of internal rot and decay. Trees that are dropping branches such as is commonly seen in large old pecan trees , white oaks, water oaks , and sweet gum trees, just to name a few. One of the natural characteristics of pecan trees is brittle wood even when young. Sweet gum trees with age tends to develop brittle wood. Water oaks and white oaks as they age has a tendency to develop internal rots, hollows, and are prone to dropping large limbs unexpectedly or uproot completely. Trees that has large limbs that extends over the roof of a house need to monitored closely especially as a hurricane or storm approaches, it may even be a good idea to evacuate the structure completely or at least an isolated area of the house that would be affected if a limb broke during a storm. Consideration to having the tree prune by a licensed professional may be in order. Sometimes it’s not necessary to remove the entire tree.

Finally, to me it’s just common sense and good judgment to periodically evaluate trees growing on our own home grounds , but additionally as Master Gardeners who are in a position to enlighten others who may not have access to the information like we do. So if you’re visiting a relative, friend or neighbor and you notice a tree that could be a potential threat , point it out , most people will be appreciative. Whether or not someone takes our advice or not, if we’ve done our part , then we’ve done our best to educate someone else in one area of horticulture. After all as a Master Gardener that is where you should get your greatest reward. Thanks for all that you do in assisting the LSU AgCenter in the dissemination of research based information.

Happy Gardening!!
Gerald P. Roberts
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    Gerald Roberts

    Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
    LSU AgCenter
    1010 Lafayette St., Suite 325
    Lafayette, LA 70501
    GRoberts@agcenter.lsu.edu
    Office (337) 291-7090
    Fax (337) 291-7099

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