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Gerald's Corner

2/1/2016

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Hello Master Gardeners,

Recently I’ve been receiving calls and pictures regarding camellia flowers being discolored after opening or some being discolored and only partially opening. On white camellia flowers the flower petals take on a tan to brown color and many fall to the ground. After discussions with Dr. Raj Singh, LSU AgCenter Plant Pathologist , and Director of the Plant Pathology Lab at LSU, we concluded that the majority of the problems were caused by cold injury. 
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​However another problem that mimics cold injury is Camellia Flower Blight which is caused by Sclerotinia camelliae which becomes active during cool moist conditions.These conditions are what Dr. Singh refers to as favorable conditions for camellia flower blight. 
To those of you who had the fortune of sitting through Dr. Singh’s plant pathology class as you received classroom instructions to become a certified Master Gardener, you should have recalled that he said in order for infection to take place there are three things that need to be present: favorable conditions , a host, and a pathogen. When camellias are blooming in cool temperatures with abundant moisture, camellia flower blight is highly probable. 
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Camellias growing in shade where moisture is more abundant are more susceptible. The fact that camellia flower blight mimics cold injury may be confusing to home gardeners because of the similar appearance, but remember, if the petals have a slippery, slimy texture then it’s camellia flower blight. If the discolored petals have a dry leathering feel then in all likelihood it is cold injury. If it is camellia flower blight all infected flowers that fall to the ground should be picked up and discarded. Some gardeners even picked the infected flowers off the plant and discarded them. If this is not done, the pathogen will over winter in the old infected flowers and be there to infect the next crop of camellia flowers.
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I’m also receiving numerous calls from home gardeners regarding a high number of broccoli plants that are bolting or as old gardeners say, going to flower and seed. We see this occurring when these plants are repeatedly exposed to warm temperatures, which is common with late season broccoli. If you recall we’ve had several periods of above normal temperatures and since I’m getting calls from all across Lafayette and surrounding parishes it’s safe to conclude that the warm weather patterns are to blame. Bolting is actually a survival mechanism in certain plants , where by if the temperature ranges are higher than what the plant has been genetically programmed to handle, the plant feels threatened and tries to produce the next generation by flowering, followed by seed production. Some research indicates that to some degree as a gardener these plants can be mulched or watered to keep the roots cool which may minimize bolting. However, I’m not sure if that has been proven! All cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, turnips , kale, cabbage and several others, are susceptible to bolting!!

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One of the most serious diseases of cruciferous crops worldwide is Black Rot caused by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. If the pathogen is present in seeds or transplants, and favorable conditions develop such as wind and rain producing splashing water, it is highly likely that infection will take place. Many gardeners have called and sent pictures of browning of the leaves of broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower within the last month. They should remember the rainy weather pattern we’ve been having and continuing to have. The infection usually begins on the leaf margins where the pathogen enters the plant through natural openings in the leaf or through insect wounds. The leaves begin to take on a tan to brown V shaped lesion in its early stages and progressively moves downward from the leave margin to consume an increasingly larger area of the leaves of these vegetables. This causes plants to sometimes die prematurely, remain small, or lowers the quality of the vegetables produced. Symptoms are sometimes confused with nutritional problems. In the very early stages of development, infected leaves can be removed and applications of copper fungicide can be made to slow the spread of Black Rot.

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Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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Between The Rows

2/1/2016

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We’re getting to the end of winter now. Soon spring will be here and we can start complaining about the hot weather again. February is the last ‘winter’ month. After this, ‘warm’ will be more common and more consistent. It’s not that we haven’t had warm during the winter months, but it was neither consistent nor common. I, for one, am looking forward to the warm.

Starting now until mid-February you can plant broccoli, Chinese cabbage, carrots and cauliflower, after mid-month, plant snap beans and sweet corn. All month long you can plant beets, Swiss chard, mustard greens, Irish potatoes, radishes and turnips out in the open garden, but eggplant, pepper and tomato seeds need protection. Plant these indoors, in the greenhouse or in the cold frame. (If you need a review of cold frames, refer to Between the Rows for February 2015 on the Master Gardener website.) It’s still too cold to plant these warm-weather-lovers outdoors. They need warmth, so if you want transplants when the weather gets warm, plant those seeds in a protected area now and baby them until it’s time to set them out.

Let’s review the reasons to grow your own transplants:
1. More variety: you can never get the variety of commercial transplants that you can find in seeds; 2. Control: you know what you put into the transplants, no pesticides, herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, if you don’t want them; and, 3. You have the transplants you want when you want them. No waiting for the growers to get them to the nursery.


Speaking about variety, you know that eating a colorful diet is healthier for you, right? Well, you can start eating that colorful diet by choosing more colorful varieties when choosing seeds. Take cauliflower, for example, white is good. 
Graph of Cauliflower dietary breakdown
It’s loaded with nutrients – just look what you get in a one cup serving!

That’s a pretty potent nutrition package, especially considering it also provides 10% of daily fiber and does it in only 25 calories with a low glycemic index. That means it doesn’t cause your blood sugar to shoot up.
When you eat purple cauliflower, however, you get all of the benefits of white cauliflower plus a number of extra goodies. One of those extras is anthocyanins. Anthocyanins are the reason it’s purple and not only does it make the flower bud pretty, they can help to lower your risk of Type 2 diabetes, prevent heart disease and eye problems, improve brain function, and help to control your weight. Anthocyanins are also antimicrobial and eliminate many types of environmental pollutants. It’s also a super antioxidant that can work for up to three days reducing free radicals, unlike most antioxidants that work once and are then broken down.

Another super health benefit found in purple cauliflower is glucoraphanins. These are the compounds in cruciferous vegetables, like broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and kale that provide their anti-cancer benefit. The glucoraphanin is broken down into a compound called sulforaphane that is absorbed in the intestine then modified in the liver to actually produce the anticancer compound, which causes the cancer cell to self-destruct without harming healthy cells. How’s that for super-duper high powered nutrition? One note, though, to gain maximum benefit you should eat your purple cauliflower raw.That’s just one example of better nutrition through choosing colors. So when you’re choosing your seed varieties, choose color whenever you can.

The Ag Center recommends the following varieties of bush beans: Blue Lake 274, Bronco, Contender, powdery mildew resistant (PM), Derby, an All American Selection (AAS), Festina, Lynx, Magnum, Provider, downy mildew resistant (DM, PM), Roma II, Royal Burgundy (think anthocyanins again), Strike and Valentino. For pole beans the recommendations are: Blue Lake, Kentucky blue (AAS), Kentucky Wonder 191, McCaslin, Rattlesnake (striped) and Yardlong Asparagus Bean (one of my absolute favorites; it’s never failed me). For the various types of sweet corn, the recommendations are: of the Sweet varieties, try Gold Queen, Merit, Seneca Horizon (bicolor, BC), or Silver Queen; of the Supersweet varieties, try Golden Queen and Honey ‘N Pearl (AAS, BC); of the Sugar Enhanced (SE) varieties, try Ambrosia, Avalon, Bodacious, Delectable, Honey Select (AAS), Incredible, Lancelot (BC), Miracle, Precious Gem (BC) or White Out.

Don’t forget to fertilize. For snap beans, add 2 to 3 pounds of 8-24-24 or 2 to 5 pounds of 8-8-8 per 100 feet of row before planting. For beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, rutabagas and kohlrabi, add 6 to 7 pounds of 8-8-8 or 4 to 5 pounds of 8-24-24 before planting, then side dress 3 to 4 weeks after planting. For cabbage, collards, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, add 5 to 6 pounds of 8-8-8 or 3 to 4 pounds of 8-24-24 before planting, then side dress 3 to 4 weeks after planting, then again in another 2 to 3 weeks.

That’s about it for February. Talk with you again next month. Until then, Happy Gardening!!

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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    LPMGA

    A collection of articles submitted by LPMGA members and Agents from the LSU Ag Extension office in Lafayette Parish

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