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What Plant Am I?

3/3/2014

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My home is in the Gila Desert of Arizona, southeastern California, and the Sonora Desert of Mexico. I'm the only species in my genus, and in 1933 a National Monument was named for me near Tucson.

​I'm so slow growing that two years after my seed is sown, I will have reached a height of only 3¼ inches. It takes me 30 years to reach three feet, but I can live for 200 years and reach 60 feet tall. At about seven feet, my main stem, which is held upright by a concealed cylinder of woody poles, begins to put out branches. These branches then put out smaller branches, all of which closely parallel my main stem and help me balance against wind and earth movement. Nesting woodpeckers and flickers make large holes in me.

At 16 feet, I can weigh approximately 1,500 pounds because of the water I contain. My flowers appear on the upper part of my stem and branches when I'm an adult. They are white and about 4¾ inches in both width and length, with a green scaly tube, and short, spreading petals.

My fruit is red inside and out, edible, and opens spontaneously to release my seeds. It was a staple item of diet for the Papago Indians, who also fermented the juice and used it to celebrate their New Year in June.

Do you know what plant I am? 
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Picture
Credit: National Park Service
Picture
Credit: US Forest Service
Carnegiea gigantea: Saguaro
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Between the Rows

3/3/2014

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Picture
Oh, this weather! Will winter never end? I really had thought that the bad cold would have been over by now, but no such luck. It looks like we’ll have one more dip into the mid 30’s this week. After that dip, the extended forecast indicates repeated dips into the 40’s through March 21, but the real cold should be over because the last average frost date for the Lafayette area is around mid-March as you can see by the map:

It has been difficult watching my poor plants covered in ice, drooping and browned by the cold. I was afraid that two citrus that I had planted within the year were lost, but I checked them last week, and I believe (hope) that they may have survived. They probably have lost a few limbs, but the trees will probably be OK. I am not doing any pruning now, even if I would love to make the ugly brown leaves and branches go away. Those ugly browns actually protect the remaining parts of the plant from the cold. So follow the AgCenter recommendations and wait until the plant puts out new green before pruning off winter-killed branches. You will be protecting your plant and, most likely, losing less of the plant than if you trimmed it up right away.

​The cole crops are doing very well with the cold. They love it. My broccoli in particular is producing beautifully. I am picking, and eating, and freezing it regularly. I will have broccoli throughout the summer. I did not plant cabbage or cauliflower, but if I had, I would expect an equally good crop from them.

After this last spattering of cold nights, you will be able to plant some of the warm weather crops, like beans, but, please do yourself and your plants a favor and wait until the soil has warmed to about 60⁰ before planting tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers; that should happen about midMarch. The air temperature may be quite warm, but the soil temperature may still be well below 60⁰. Yes, you can try to get a jump on the season by planting one or two seedlings early, but if we get any serious cold, the plants could languish and never really develop well. Waiting will insure sturdy, well-developed plants. Yes, I always try for an early tomato or pepper, but never with all of my seedlings. Sometimes it gets me that extra -early tomato, but about half the time, I lose. Risking a few is a reasonable gamble though.

Speaking of seedlings, most of mine are coming up well. I planted fourteen varieties of tomato, ranging from the reliable, I WILL get a crop, Ace, to the heirlooms and foreign seeds, like Mortgage Lifter and Japanese Trifele Black (actually from Russia), to the more modern creations, like the open-pollinated Chocolate Cherry. With this range, I should have tomatoes all season long. I follow the same idea with peppers, cucumbers and eggplant. I use a few seeds of each type to have one or two plants of many different varieties. This gives me early, mid-season and late varieties, as well as insurance in case one variety does not do well that season.

​You can put out summer squash, cantaloupe, okra, limas, cukes and corn starting in early March. Beginning the middle of March you can set out watermelon, pumpkin and collards, as well as tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, but remember that the soil temperature has to be at least 60⁰. If you stagger setting the plants out, putting a few plants out each week or 10 days, you can lengthen the harvest. My peas are doing well. Last week I went to look at them and found that the Oregon Sugar Pod II was up nicely, but the Cascadia had not sprouted at all. Since I didn’t have any more Cascadia seed, I overplanted the area with Mammoth Melting Sugar. I checked them today and all are up and doing well. This cold, warm, cold, warm weather that we have been having has the fruit trees a little confused. My apples and peaches are both blooming. If we have a good cold snap, I could lose all of the production this year. I don’t believe that the predicted cold will be low enough to be problematic though – or maybe I should say, ‘so I hope’.

For anyone who is interested, the Acadiana Permaculture Guild meeting this quarter will be held at my home on Saturday, March 1 st at 1:00 pm. Details can be found on the Guild’s FaceBook page. We will be designing a fruit tree guild and pruning fruit trees. I hope you all have luck with handling the cold this month, and next month we will have SPRING and we can go back to enjoying our gardens before the summer heat keeps us in again. Until next month, Happy Gardening! 

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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Gerald's Corner

3/1/2014

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Hello Master Gardeners,
As we progressively move into Spring, many of us who love gardening realize that we have experienced an atypical winter —one like we’ve not experienced in several years. Along with numerous episodes of freezing temperatures came the challenge of trying to protect our landscape’s tropical or subtropical plants. Now that it appears that the winter of 2014 is almost behind us, we are faced with the challenge of assessing freeze damage to many of our cold-tender plants. While there are numerous issues that determine the extent of damage, we know that duration, or length of time that cold-tender plants are exposed to freezing temperatures, factors into the outcome. At one point, I can recall a local meteorologist commented that the Acadiana area had experienced around 60 hours of freezing temperatures. Anytime cold-tender plants are exposed to many hours of freezing temperatures, especially with the temperature in Lafayette dropping to 19 degrees, damage can be expected. Now comes the question of how to deal with plants that were damaged. Based on the phone calls I received within last two weeks and visits with employees at several retail garden centers, there are many people who have questions about assessing damage and what to do.

While there are a host of plants in our landscapes that will need attention following damage due to freezing temperatures, two of the most popular are citrus trees and palms. Both of these plants are susceptible to being damaged or killed by the temperatures we experienced. One of the points I’m making with gardeners regarding citrus is that kumquats and satsuma’s are the most cold hardy. Following these, in order of hardiness, are sweet oranges, with grapefruits, lemons and limes being the least cold hardy. Personal observations indicate, to me, we will lose some of these — especially younger trees that were not in a protected areas. The extent of damage is determined by several factors in addition to length of freezing temperatures: location of the plant, age, maturity and overall health of the plants. According to LSU AgCenter recommendations, it is best to wait until Spring is in “full swing” before assessing the damage to citrus. By the time we get into mid-to-late April and May, plants should show signs of new growth. We will be able to assess the damage, begin pruning off dead or brown branches and pulling out or cutting down those plants that show no signs of life. Another recommendation is to scrape the bark of branches or trunk and look for green or brown beneath the bark. Green is usually an indication of life. YET, if you want to be absolutely sure, you can wait until mid-May or a little later. One of the realities is that in South Louisiana, the limiting factor for citrus production is freezing temperatures.

In recent years, we’ve seen palms planted more frequently. There are many gardeners who are beginning to question whether or not it is wise to plant palms in our area at all. Of all the palms planted here, the queen palm has proven to be very popular. Unfortunately, it is also the least cold hardy of the palms we plant.

While all the palms suffered some damage, the vulnerable queen palms likely sustained the most damage and we should expect that some were killed. Others were damaged too and as a result will not grow out uniformly, with some of the new growth being distorted. Some palms will not recover. Palms are classified as angiosperms in the subclass monocotyledons and are more like bamboo and grasses than like other familiar trees in our landscapes. Stems or trunks of palms tend to be cylindrical in shape and usually have no leaf bearing lateral branches. There is usually one main growing point on palms known as the terminal bud located at the very top of the crown; this is where all leaves and growth arises. Once the growing point is damaged or killed—a possibility outcome with this winter’s freezing temperatures —that palm usually will not recover. Once again once that growing point is killed, the palm cannot generate a new one. That is why a palm should never be cut back from the top to try and control its height because it will die.

There are people who talked about protecting their palms by wrapping the trunks with insulating material or small Christmas tree lights; but, if nothing was done to protect the terminal bud/growing point, wrapping the trunk did little good. Since most palms are grown from seed, usually when it reaches a salable size, the grower has so much invested in the palm that it is expensive to purchase. We usually buy the larger palms; however, the larger they are the more costly they will be. So the question becomes how will we know how much damage was done or if the palm survived. For the time being, one can remove the brown fronds, but since palms don’t really begin growing until the soil temperature warms up significantly, it is recommended that a true assessment should be put off until mid-to-late summer. By that time, mother nature will show us not only the extent of damage, but whether or not a particular palm survived. As in the case of citrus, those palms that did survive will go through a process of recovery, so that means giving those plant all of the care and maintenance require to assist its recovery. Make sure they’re well watered, fertilized, and kept relatively pest free. A true assessment will have to wait until June, July or even August. Sometimes freezes will kill all the fronds, but don’t immediately assume that the palm is dead. It is always possible that the terminal bud/growing point survived. So before making a decision to remove it, wait! Give it some time, and look for new growth to occur at the center of the crown. Be aware that there have been cases where palms will begin to show new growth, then die.

Finally, when making the decision as to whether or not to plant palms, always consider the fact the even though there may have been several years of mild winters, the fact remains that it’s not a matter of “if,” but “when!” Eventually, we will, again, have temperatures similar to the ones we experienced in the winter of 2014!!!!

The sago palm is a popular plant that suffered damage and may have been lost this winter. Belonging to a group of plants called cycads, these are tropical or subtropical species that resemble palms in appearance, but that is where the similarities end. Sago palms are more closely related to pine trees. They are gymnosperms, producing seed bearing cones. Care of Sago, however, is similar to palms. For Sago palms that suffered damage, remove the brown leaves, take care of it and see if it recovers.
Happy Gardening!!!
Gerald P. Roberts

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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    LPMGA

    A collection of articles submitted by LPMGA members and Agents from the LSU Ag Extension office in Lafayette Parish

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