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Between the Rows

3/1/2016

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USING MEDICINAL PLANTS WITH MARY ANN ARMBRUSTER

This is a departure from my normal column, but I was having a terrible writer’s block – I just could not think of anything to write – so Theresa suggested that I do this instead. I hope you enjoy it. Many of us want to use medicinal plants, but how to use them? It’s fairly simple, so here goes. Before I start, I have to include this NOTICE: The information presented here is meant for educational and historical use only. It is not meant as a substitute for medical diagnosis or treatment.

Today we will talk about infusions. To use plants, we want to extract the compounds inside the plants into a liquid that we can take or use in some way. This extraction is called an infusion. There are many different types of infusions, but the simplest is a tea. A tea is an infusion made using boiling or near-boiling water. If you can make cup of Lipton, you can make an herbal tea.

It’s certainly possible to make tea a cup at a time, but it is easier to make enough for 2-3 days at a time and refrigerate the unused portion, well covered, until needed.

HOW TO MAKE TEAS:
For 1 cup: 1-3 teaspoons dried plant material to each cup of water depending on your preference. For 1 pint: 1 ounce dried material to a pint of water or 2 ounces of plant material to a quart. If you wish to use fresh plant material, use twice as much as you would 

 use dried. Place the plant material into a heat-safe container, bring water to a boil and pour over the plant material. Cover and steep 3 to 5 minutes, strain and use.

HOW TO MAKE COLD INFUSIONS:
This is used for compounds that are heat-labile (those that will be damaged or destroyed by heat.) Use the same quantities as for a tea, but instead of using boiling water, mix the plant material with unheated water and allow it to steep for 30 to 60 minutes, strain and use. As with teas, it is easier to make enough for 2-3 days at a time and refrigerate the unused portion until needed.


HOW TO MAKE DECOCTIONS:
Decoctions are used for hard plant material, like roots, bark or hard seeds. For a decoction, mix the plant material with water in a pot. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for 20 to 60 minutes, strain and use. Refrigerating any unused decoction will keep it good for a few days.


HOW TO MAKE SYRUPS:
Syrups are long-lasting and good-tasting infusions. To make a syrup, start with 2 ounces of dried plant material to a quart of water in a pot. On low heat, simmer gently until the volume is reduced to about 1 pint. Strain out the plant material, then add 1 cup of honey, maple syrup or vegetable glycerin, and mix well. Optional: You can add 1 ounce of brandy to each pint of syrup. This will increase the

shelf-life by acting as an anti-microbial. Syrups will keep for months at room temperature or longer if refrigerated.

HOW TO MAKE TINCTURES:
Tinctures are the most potent infusions and are super simple to make - no heat required. The liquid used can be 80 or greater proof alcohol (usually brandy or vodka, but pure grain alcohol works very well), raw apple cider vinegar or vegetable glycerin.  Alcohol is the most efficient solvent, being able to extract both acidic and basic compounds. Vinegar or glycerin are less efficient, but there are situations in which it is best to avoid alcohol - when the tincture is to be used to treat children comes to mind.

Chop the plant material finely; this is one preparation for which it is best to use fresh material rather than dried. Pack the finely chopped plant material in a clean, dry jar. Pour in the liquid to cover the plant material by 1 to 2 inches. Make sure that the plant material is continually kept under the liquid – use something nonreactive to hold it under the surface of the liquid, if necessary. Store in a cool, dark place and mix by inverting every day or two.

Caution:  Alcohol, especially, can seep from even fully closed containers, and alcohol can damage furniture finishes. To make sure you avoid damage, place the tincture jar on a glass plate or another non-reactive container that will capture any leaks and prevent the liquid from coming in contact with your furniture. Better safe than sorry. 

Continue to mix by turning the container over and over every day or two for 4 to 6 weeks. When the extraction is complete, strain out the plant material, squeezing to salvage as much liquid as possible. The used plant material can go on your compost pile.

​Tinctures are handy to use and only require about 30 drops per dose or two droppers full. If placed in a small bottle, they can easily be carried in a pocket or purse, so it’s best to store them in small dropper bottles. To use, the tincture can be diluted in pre-heated water to make a tea, but the most effective way to take  a tincture is to place the drops under the tongue. Taken this way the medicinal compounds are transferred directly into the bloodstream without having to go through the GI tract (mouth, stomach, intestine…).


HOW TO MAKE INFUSED OILS:
Infused oils are also easy to make and can be used in the kitchen as well as the medicine cabinet. This is one place that dried plant material is MANDATORY. DO NOT USE FRESH HERBS, USE ONLY DRIED! Fresh material contains water; water makes it possible for Clostridium botulinum to grow, potentially leading to botulism. Using only dried materials and oil avoids introducing water into the oil. Without water, the bacterium cannot grow. Here is a link to an article from the University of Maine on

making infused oils: http://umaine.edu/publications/4385e/  Mix the herbs with the oil in a pot and heat gently for 25 to 45 minutes. Cool and strain. Bottle - dark bottles are preferable here. Stored in a cool, dark location the infused oil will last for months. Infused oils can be used in turn to make creams and lotions.

HOW TO MAKE LINIMENTS:
A liniment is made using the same procedure as a tincture, except that it uses rubbing alcohol as the liquid instead of ethanol (brandy, vodka, etc.). This means that the finished product must be used externally only. A tincture could be used externally, but usually isn’t used this way because drinking alcohol is much more expensive then rubbing alcohol. It is more cost effective to make a separate batch for external use. So remember, TINCTURE INTERNAL, LINIMENT EXTERNAL.

Next time look for information on lotions and creams and a very attractive recipe!

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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Gerald's Corner

3/1/2016

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Picture
March Garden Tips
​

For vegetable gardeners, as soon as the weather is favorable and the soil is dry if you haven’t already started, you can begin tilling and preparing the soil for your Spring garden!! I was at several garden centers around the Lafayette area during mid–February and gardeners purchasing vegetable transplants and seeds was brisk.

Most gardeners understand planting early does come with some risk from the possibility of freezing, they like a challenge and feel if they can cheat mother nature, they’ll be rewarded with early harvesting of vegetables. The other advantage of planting early is increased production during milder temperatures and usually less pest problems. A free copy of the Louisiana Vegetable Planting Guide can be obtained from the parish LSU Extension Office.

Seeds of the following vegetables can be planted this month: cantaloupe, collards, corn, cucumbers, cucuzzi, lima beans, mustard, radishes, snapbeans, summer squash, Swiss chard, and watermelon. Plant transplants of the following: kohlrabi, peppers, and tomatoes. Mirlitons are planted now using the entire fruit with the sprouted end buried in the soil about 3 inches deep.

This is also the month that warm season bedding plants can be transplanted, so begin preparing the soil in landscape beds. Consider using root stimulants or starter solutions when transplanting warm season bedding plants, and pay attention to plant depth, being careful to set the plants at the same depth they were growing. A one inch layer of an organic mulch will help to suppress weeds, reduce soil compaction, and conserve moisture. It may take an average of a month for bedding plants to become established, so during this time be sure they are not allowed to dry out. Once the root system is established, less supplemental water will be needed. Sometimes after March 15th depending on temperature, it should be safe to plant tender bedding plants such as marigolds, zinnias, blue daze, pentas, celosia, salvia, portulaca, and melampodium.

Continue to plant roses purchased in containers, but bare root roses are still available at various garden centers even though they should have been planted last month. Once bare root roses begin to sprout, take extra care when selecting, planting, and caring for them until they become established. Summer flower bulbs can be planted beginning in late March or early April. Since most of these bulbs are tropical, it may be well into April or May before they begin to make accelerated growth. It is best to wait until April to plant caladiums since it’s preferable to plant caladiums in warm soil.

Established perennials should be fertilized this month. This is most efficiently and economically done by using a granular fertilizer with a 3 : 1 : 2 ratio (a fertilizer similar to 15 – 5 – 10 ) which means 15 % nitrogen, 5% Phosphorous, and 10 % Potassium. In terms of the amount and method of application follow label or packaging directions. After the fertilizer is applied, water the bed to wash any fertilizer granules off the foliage and down to the soil, since many fertilizers contain salts and can burn tender foliage.

As the weather/temperature warms up, lawn grasses will begin to grow and mowing will be needed. Sharpen mower blades as mowing needs become more frequent. However, this is not the time to fertilize lawns since fertilizing lawns while the soil temperature is cold will not allow the grass to efficiently pick up the fertilizer, and fertilizing too early can aggravate brown patch disease. The first application of fertilizer should be around the first week in April. I know it’s common to apply weed and feed products early in Spring, but keep in mind that weed and feed is a blend of a herbicide for weed control and a fertilizer. Instead, it’s preferable to concentrate on broadleaf weed control this month by applying one of the 4 way blend herbicides such as Ortho Weed B Gon or Fertilome Weed Free Zone.

Scout roses for thrips which are a common problem on roses in Spring and early Summer. Thrips are tiny insects that infest the flower buds. Symptoms include buds that don’t open properly, and when the flower does open, the petals have brown scorched edges. Thrips don’t damage the bush but can ruin the flowers. Spray once or twice weekly with Acephate or Mavrik for control. Fertilize rose bushes in early March, and also begin spraying to control insect and disease problems. For convenience there are several products available for rose growers that are formulated with both an insecticide and a fungicide in the same product.
Powdery mildew is a fungus disease that is common on the new growth of many plants that usually begin to show up this month. This disease appears as a powdery covering on the leaves or flower buds. Severe infection can lead to foliage being damaged and flower buds can drop. Look for fungicides labeled for control of powdery mildew, one of which is chlorothalonil.

It is a common practice for some gardeners to apply aluminum sulfate or lime to the soil around their hydrangeas to influence flower color. Aluminum sulfate causes the flowers to be blue , and lime causes the flowers to be pink. Since flower buds should already be present, don’t prune hydrangeas at this time.

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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