Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners
  • Home
  • Programs and Activities
    • Plant Swap
    • PlantFest™ >
      • PlantFest™ 2025
      • PlantFest™ 2024
    • Dans le Jardin >
      • Dans le Jardin 2025
      • Dans Le Jardin 2024
      • Dans le Jardin 2023
    • Speakers Bureau
    • Demo Gardens
    • School Garden Initiative
    • Vermilionville Medicinal Demonstration Garden
  • About Us
  • Become a Master Gardener
  • Membership Benefits
  • Online Resources
    • LSU AgCenter
  • Master Gardeners’ Corner
  • Mazie Movassaghi Gardener's Memorial Fund
  • Members Only Resources
  • Contact Us
  • Stay in Touch! Sign Up for Emails

What Plant Am I?

4/7/2014

0 Comments

 
I'm a hardy native perennial of Europe, Africa and Asia. Because of my stalked heart-shaped leaves, the ancient Greeks considered me a symbol of love and fertility.

I make a good ground cover because I'm low-mounding and make long runners. My flowers appear in Spring and range from deep purple to pale lavender to white and are sweetly scented. They, as well as my leaves, are edible. My essential oil is used to make delicately scented perfume. Rock gardens, borders and naturalistic settings make happy homes for me.

​After blooming, I develop small seed pods which pop open when they turn brown, scattering my seeds up to six inches away. If they fall on loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, they easily take root, even to the point of becoming slightly invasive. But I'm so pretty, who cares?

Cake decorators often crystallize my flowers with sugar and use me to beautify wedding cakes.

Do you know what plant I am? 
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Picture
Credit: Gardeners World
Viola odorata ( V. Canadensis ) Garden violet, Sweet violet
0 Comments

Between the Rows

4/7/2014

0 Comments

 
AHHH, SPRING – FINALLY, (I certainly hope, but am almost afraid to write it :) ) Anyway, I’m moving ahead as though we are actually finished with cold. The past few days have been absolutely glorious. I have been unable to stay indoors. I spruced up the beds by adding compost, composted manure from dove bedding, and broken down pine straw to the beds to refresh them. The compost was a mixture of finished and partially finished materials. I just put the partially finished stuff under the others and wet it thoroughly. It will finish breaking down there, the earthworms and other break-down specialists will be drawn to the bedding and within a very short time, they will have everything broken down and mixed.

So, what’s happening now? The broccoli is still producing nicely, lots of side shoots totaling about three cups each week. I accidentally left some of it on the plants too long and the yellow flowers started to show, so I brought the stems in and put them in a vase. They make a nice bouquet. I am beginning to see some aphids on the lower stalks of some of the broccoli. I started spraying them with a strong stream of water, and I’ll wait to see how the predators handle the infestation.

​The veggies are doing great, and the peach trees are covered with blossoms. They survived the cold very well. The two small citrus are still iffy, but I’ll wait and see. I tried a few new squashes this year, an open-pollinated summer squash called ‘Saffron,’ and one called ‘Sibley.’ Sibley is an heirloom introduced in 1887. It is a banana squash with “thick sweet flesh,” and it’s supposed to be an excellent keeper. We’ll see how long it keeps in our coastal Louisiana climate - but maybe if I dehydrate it.

I love melons. One of my favorites is ‘Heart of Gold’; it is fragrant, juicy, and very sweet—everything you want in a cantaloupe. I’m also trying a couple of new ones this year: ‘Noir des Carmes’ is a true French cantaloupe with a “complex and deeply satisfying flavor.” I’m looking forward to that one. Te other is ‘Petit Gris de Rennes’ - supposed to be la crème de la crème of French cantaloupes. It was first documented almost 400 years ago. I also like ‘Hale’s Best Jumbo,’ another sweet, fragrant melon. This one has a small seed cavity. Last but not least, no melon garden is complete without watermelon. I’m trying ‘Sugar Baby’ and ‘Moon and Stars.’ It’s been around a long time, so I hope it lives up to its reputation.

I’ve started a succession of cucumbers, starting with ‘Parisian Pickling,’ another French heirloom used in the late 1800’s to make cornichons, those tiny, tart and delicious pickles that I love. I made some of them last year, and they came out great. I definitely want more. I also planted ‘Homemade Pickles’ and ‘Yard long Armenian.’ I will keep planting cukes every two weeks throughout the summer until about six weeks before the first frost. That way I keep using young vines and when they start to flag, I pull them up. Trellises and lots of space increase the air circulation, reducing the incident of disease and making them easier to pick them, too.

As for insect pests, I’ve seen aphids on a couple of plants, but not many. I have seen a couple of assassin bugs on the citrus though, so I expect the good guys will take care of the bad ones and keep everything in balance.

Over the past five days, I have weeded four 100-square-foot beds. Some of the weeds were as tall as I am – granted, I’m not that tall, but still it was a lot of work. When I planted some seedlings that I started early in the year, and then looked over those beds, you know, it was the most satisfying work I have done in months. I think I’ll keep doing it. 

​Until next time, Happy Gardening!

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

0 Comments

Gerald's Corner

4/1/2014

0 Comments

 
Hello Gardeners,

This month, let’s look at several topics. To most of us, the effects of this winter are not a total shock because we are aware of the unpredictable weather here in Louisiana. I’m constantly getting calls, now, from gardeners who are asking questions such as: will my gingers come back? Or, how do I determine if my angel trumpets survive? Or, how do I determine how much of my citrus trees should be pruned? The first point I’d like to make is that we are not the ones that will determine the extent of damage that occurred on landscape plants. That is going to be determined by the overall health and vigor of the plants, the plant’s (or plant group’s) degree of cold hardiness, whether or not the plants were in an exposed or protected area, and finally, how low the temperatures dropped below freezing, and how many hours temperatures remained there..

When selecting plants for our southern landscapes, gardeners should become familiar with the terms tender and hardy. Hardy plants are those that can reliably survive winter temperatures in the area where you garden with little or no protection. A plant is considered tender when it will not reliably survived winter temperatures in the area where you garden without extensive protection. Also there are various degrees of cold hardiness and cold tenderness that exist among both (hardy and tender) groups of plants. In this day and age, gardeners should be aware of the potential for damage from freezing temperatures when choosing plants for our southern gardens.
Another misunderstood term used in discussing cold temperatures during winter months is wind chill. For the record, plants don’t feel wind chill like we do; rather, plants are affected by the actual temperatures.

Upon the advice of Dan Gill and Dr. Allen Owings, both horticulturists with the LSU AgCenter, I’m telling all gardeners with the questions that I mentioned above, to be patient. Wait on Mother Nature to determine the extent of damage and the amount of pruning necessary on woody tropical plants, such as hibiscus, angel trumpet, schefflera, and whether or not herbaceous tropical plants such as cannas, elephant ears, philodendrons or gingers will sprout or put out new growth. For woody tropical plants, try scratching the bark; if the tissue is green underneath it still alive. If the tissue is tan or brown, the branch is probably dead. Start at the top and work your way down to see how far down the plant was killed. If no leaves or new growth is produced on plants or parts of plants this month, then that plant or a portion of that plant can be pruned or removed. The key is to be patient and allow the growing season to unfold before making a final determination.

Palms and their freeze injuries have also prompted many questions. We should wait until mid-to-late summer before assessing cold damage because palms will not begin to actively grow until soil temperatures rise. That is when the soil is warm and encourages the roots of palms to grow vigorously. For this reason the recommended transplanting period for palms is from late April or early May through the month of August, instead of fall and winter like other shrubs and trees.

The bottom line is that this is going to be a recovery year for a lot of tropical plants in our gardens. We must do whatever we possibly can to minimize stress on these plants. We want all the energy of the plant to be directed toward recovery, instead of battling drought or pest problems.

I’ve looked at approximately 12 lawns and had ten or more conversations with homeowners primarily concerned about their lawns being slow to green up. I pointed out to them that we have to remember that all warm season lawn grasses such as St Augustine, Centipede, Zoysia, Carpet, Bermuda require warm soil temperatures for root activity. According to Dr. Ron Strahan of the LSU AgCenter, root activity gets started when the soil temperature gets in the 60’s then progressively increases as the soil temperature rises. That is the primary reason why the recommendation for the first application of fertilizer is the 1st or 2nd week in April. In March and before daytime temperatures rises above 85 degrees, homeowners should be focusing on weed control. In early March while the soil is still cool, only very limited amounts of fertilizer will be absorbed by the roots of warm season lawn grasses. Controlling those winter weeds does a couple of things: first, it reduces the competition for water and nutrients with the lawn grass; second, it controls the weeds before they mature and drop seeds in the soil that will eventually germinate. We want to apply herbicides to control the majority of weeds before daytime temperatures surpass 85 degrees. Once temperatures rise above 85 degrees, temporary yellowing of lawn grasses can be expected with herbicide applications.

To control many of the winter broadleaf annual weeds that we currently see in lawns, there are two herbicides that are recommend at the rate of 2 ounces per gallon of water. One is Ortho Weed B Gon and the other is Fertilome Weed Freezone. Both contain the same 4 herbicides to control weeds. That is why both of these herbicides are referred to as 4-way blends for use by homeowners. Spray once; then in 10 – 14 days evaluate weeds and make another application if necessary. Either one of these herbicides will give homeowners what they need to control broadleaf weeds in warm season lawn grasses.

All lawn grasses will benefit from fertilizer applications which will provide nutrients needed for optimum performance. Some homeowners are choosing to not apply synthetic fertilizers. Instead, they are opting to leave grass clippings on the soil surface or mulching grass clippings, which return nutrients to the lawn. Other options include the application of natural or organic type lawn fertilizers. If you choose, synthetic slow-release fertilizers, those by Scott’s, Anderson’s, and Florikan are quality fertilizers that can be found locally. Water-soluble synthetic fertilizers such as 8 – 8 – 8 or 13 – 13 – 13 are also options.

Apply the fertilizer while the grass is dry, followed by rainfall or applying a sprinkler system for 15 minutes to wash the fertilizer from the lawn grass into the soil.

Finally, the best weed control is a healthy, thick, vigorous growing lawn that will keep out weeds. Mowing height makes a big contribution toward the health and performance of a lawn, with proper mowing height reducing stress on lawn grasses, especially when it is hot, dry or growing in the shade.

The following mowing heights are recommended for various warm season lawn grasses, St Augustine 3 – 3 ½ inches, Centipede 1 ½ - 2 inches, Common Bermuda 1 – 1 ½ inches, Hybrid Bermuda ¾ -1 inch and Zoysia 1 – 1 ½ inches.
Happy Gardening and Bring on Spring!

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

0 Comments

    LPMGA

    A collection of articles submitted by LPMGA members and Agents from the LSU Ag Extension office in Lafayette Parish

    Categories

    All
    Between The Rows
    Devenport Report
    Gerald's Corner
    What Plant Am I?

    Archives

    April 2025
    March 2025
    February 2025
    January 2025
    December 2024
    November 2024
    October 2024
    August 2024
    April 2018
    February 2017
    January 2017
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    June 2013

    RSS Feed

   © 2013-2025 Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners Association, Inc. All Rights Reserved