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Gerald's Corner

4/1/2015

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I am receiving calls daily from gardeners who are frustrated with mother nature, not only because of the cool temperatures but also the consistent rainfall that we’ve been receiving. The month of March was not very kind to gardeners causing many to delay garden chores they had planned to address during March. I told many of them to not despair and that soon enough conditions would improve and even though we’ve fallen off schedule many of those gardening chores can still be performed. For example, if you haven’t completed your fertilization program on trees and shrubs that normally are fertilized in late winter or early spring, then do so as soon as you can.

I’ve received as many calls on recommended fertilizer rates for home lawns than I ever have and this was in spite of all of the rain fall. It’s just something about early spring that motivates home gardeners to want to fertilize their lawns. As you may recall, many times I have repeated the LSU AgCenter’s recommendations that the first application of fertilizer on lawns should be around the first or second week in April. This will allow time for the soil temperature to heat up and the root activity of warm season lawn grasses to increase so that the nutrients required for shoot and root growth will be absorbed. Applying fertilizer too early will stimulate brown patch disease in primarily St Augustine lawns that has a history of this disease, especially if this rainy weather pattern persists into mid spring. A couple of applications of a fungicide to address brown patch disease may help to slow it down, but if it continues to rain and night time temperatures are relatively cool, it could be an uphill battle. This is all the more reason to not fertilize too early, but rather think about targeting areas of your lawn that have weed problems.

Once our daytime temperatures average 60 degrees or above, herbicides like Ortho Weed B Gon/Weed B Gon Max and Fertilome’s Weed Free Zone are effective. Once the daytime temperatures reach the mid – high 80’s the injury from these two herbicides increases on lawn grasses. Herbicides can still be applied, but you’ll need to apply Celsius or MSM Turf, both of which are formulated to decrease the likelihood of turf injury occurring under high temperatures, and both of which can be applied during the summer months. 

Virginia buttonweed is a very serious weed in many lawns in South Louisiana. It is a thick mat forming perennial broadleaf that comes back year after year once established. Leaves are opposite and flowers are white star shaped with 4 lobes. Virginia button weed produces by heavy seed production and stem fragments, both of which can start a new plant. No one application of any herbicide is going to control it. It’s going to take persistence with several applications of herbicides beginning in mid – late April through October. Apply Weed B Gon/ Weed B Gon Max or Weed Free Zone in the mid – late Spring (April & May) every 10 – 14 days and Celsius or MSM Turf every 4 – 6 weeks through the summer months from June until October. Some gardeners have sacrificed certain areas of their lawn by applying a herbicide containing glyphosate commonly known as roundup with spot treatments. Others have hand removed large mats of Virginia button weed and bagged or burned it. Virginia button weed can be spread by seeds floating in water and by lawn equipment moving from lawn to lawn. It may be a good idea for lawn maintenance crews to rinse lawn mowers between sites to remove seed and fragment of plants to reduce the spread of this weed that can be devastating to lawns. Nature has designed this weed to survive, it’s very low growing, it’s drought tolerant, it thrives in low or poorly drained areas, and it will out compete lawn grasses. So that is why especially if this weed is in a St Augustine lawn, the lawn should never be mowed shorter than 3 inches, or the advantage goes to the Virginia button weed. 

Another broadleaf weed though not as invasive or competitive with lawns grasses as Virginia button weed is a winter annual called Spur weed or Lawn Burweed, which is a low growing resembling miniature parsley. It reproduces by seed and is presently in lawns. It has sharp spines or stickers located in the leaf axils and are injurious to humans when stepped on with bare feet as it approaches maturity. It can be especially distressing to young children. Many people here in south Louisiana refer to these as sticker weeds and as the temperatures rise, it begins to mature reaching a height of 2 – 3 inches or more. Now is the time to control it. If you choose to dig it up do so now!! If you choose to apply a herbicide, apply one of the 4 way blends such as Weed B Gon or Weed B Gon Max or Weed Free Zone. The key is to control it before it matures. It will naturally begin to mature and decline with high temperatures because it is a winter annual, but if it is allowed to persist into late April and into May, it may be too late to apply a herbicide because by then the sharp spines will already have formed and even though you kill it what will remain is a dead plant with sharp spines which can still be injurious and painful. Control it now!!

Happy Gardening!!
Gerald P. Roberts

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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Between the Rows

4/1/2015

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Spring is FINALLY here.  You know that it’s said that March comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb, and that was really true this year.  I think that our freezes are over although there are a couple of nights predicted to be down in the 40’s — but the high 40’s at least. We can all be planting pretty much any of the heat loving plants that we want right now – whether from seed or transplant, except for tomatoes.  It’s too late to plant them from seed now because they won’t be able to produce much, if anything, before the intense heat sets in, slowing down or stopping production.  Better to wait until June, then plant seeds for the fall harvest.  Of course we can continue to plant all of the beans and Southern peas, but English peas and all of the pod-peas should be producing well now, but will begin to decline as the temperature rises.  Now is a great time to start melons of all types. They will mature in the heat of summer and produce the sweet, juicy fruit that makes summer tolerable. 

You can still plant Swiss chard, which is a wonderful green.  I like the new, tender leaves in salads – they make a nice replacement for lettuce when it gets too hot for its liking – and all of the leaves can be cooked like any green.  I must say that I really like it lightly steamed with garlic and onion and seasoned with a little ham or bacon.  It’s delicious either way, raw or cooked.  If you’ve never tried it before, plant some.  It only takes a two or three plants to provide for the two of us.  You certainly don’t need a row full.  And chard is such a beautiful plant that you can plant it in the front yard as an accent plant as I do. 

Some varieties, like Bionda de Lyon or Forkhook, have white midribs, others, like Rhubarb chard, have brilliant ruby colored midribs, or the neon pink of Flamingo chard.  Then there are the varieties, like Bright Lights, that provide a delightful mixture of white, yellow, orange, pink and red. Of course you can continue planting collards all month long, as well as eggplant and all types of peppers, from seeds or transplants.  Okra can be planted now without fear of losing it to the cold. 


If you are in the mood, you can plant peanuts now, although that is one plant I’ve never tried to grow.  You can plant squashes all month long and sweet potatoes after the 10th.  If you want to try an unusual, but delicious squash – it’s really one of my favorites – try the scalloped squashes.  The Ag Center recommends Patty Green, Peter Pan, and Sunburst as varieties that do well here.  The spring vegetables are winding down now.  All of my cauliflower has been harvested and there is quite a bit in the freezer.  I am still harvesting the broccoli side shoots and will probably continue to do so until the summer heat makes them too bitter.  Then, maybe I’ll pull them up, but not as long as they keep producing well.
                         
Now is a good time to treat the soil with worm castings over any bare spots or side dress any plants that that are showing buds or fruiting. It won’t burn anything, but it can be a little pricey, so use it sparingly. Twenty percent seems to be the optimal quantity to get great growth without spending too much. Of course, if you ‘grow your own’ it doesn’t cost too much. I have a storage container that serves as my worm bed. Drill holes for air and give them good things to eat, that is, a great deal of the kitchen waste. Don’t feed the worms fats, or dairy, citrus, or any other acid food, like tomatoes, or meat, or anything that’s really rotten, and they don’t seem to like seeds.  They thrive on most other things, anything green from lettuce to asparagus to zucchini.  Add some slightly moistened, shredded paper, and shortly, you will have worm castings.  You can look up worm bins on the internet and you will find a wide variety of designs, but I find the simple 5 gallon bucket or Rubbermaid-type storage container to be the simplest for me. Well, I’m going to cut this a little short tonight.  This cast makes typing quite uncomfortable – not to mention full of errors that have to be fixed.  

So, until next month when this horrible thing is off,
Good Gardening,
​
MaryAnn Armbruster

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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    A collection of articles submitted by LPMGA members and Agents from the LSU Ag Extension office in Lafayette Parish

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