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Between the Rows

8/1/2015

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Well, it’s certainly HOT. Remember when we couldn’t wait for it to warm up a little? And, of course, since it’s so hot, it’s also dry. It’s not that we have too little rain here in south Louisiana, it’s just that it’s distributed so poorly. First we get too much, then not enough.  Oh, well, if we had just enough, just when we needed it, that would be heaven, and we’re not there yet.

But there are some things we can do in the garden now, early in the morning and late in the evening, to be sure. Don’t go out from 10 a.m to 2 p.m. for sure. Please, when you do go out, make sure to use sunscreen, wear a hat, and stay hydrated.  You don’t want to suffer from heat stroke or heat exhaustion.  

By now you should have harvested a lot of tomatoes. If you planted any of the heat set varieties, they should be doing well now. They are called ‘heat set’ because they are resistant to the changes induced by high temperatures that cause normal tomatoes to stop setting fruit when the temperature rises. You might even save some of your regular tomatoes if you prune them back, give them a fresh coat of organic mulch and feed them well. Compost tea works very well here, as does fish emulsion. Both work great as foliar feedings. Then by the time the temperatures come down moving into fall, those great root systems should push out new growth and a fresh crop of tomatoes. You can save money on new transplants and get a great fall crop to boot.  

You can do the same to peppers if they stop producing. Eggplant should continue straight through as they love the heat. You might want to give them a boost with a foliar feed of compost tea or fish emulsion while they’re bearing heavily.  Also you can begin planting fall crops now. If you’re quick you can plant cantaloupe, okra, summer squash, southern peas, and watermelon from seed, and bell pepper and tomato transplants through early August. Then starting in mid-August you can plant bush and pole snap beans, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, Swiss chard, kohlrabi, Irish potatoes and lettuce. You might want to protect the lettuce from the afternoon sun. Throughout the month of August you can plant Lima beans, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, cucumbers, mustard, pumpkins, rutabagas, shallots, and turnips.  

The Ag Center tests different varieties throughout the state and chooses the best performers to recommend, so you can trust that these varieties will give you a good chance of a plentiful harvest. Some of these suggestions are for broccoli: Arcadia, Diplomat, Gypsy, Packman, Premium Crop, Windsor, Green Magic, and Everest. I have planted both Packman and Premium Crop and had long plentiful harvests.  One stand of Packman kept producing for 18 months.  Every time the plant started to flower I cut them off and new side shoots developed.  For cauliflower they recommend: Candid Charm, Cumberland, Freedom, Snow Crown, Incline, Majestic, and Wentworth. I’ve grown Snow Crown with excellent results. 

​Recommendations for bush Lima beans include: Dixie Butterpea, Fordhook 242, Henderson Bush, Jackson Wonder and Thorngreen. The only one that I have seen locally is Henderson Bush. I’m sure you could find any of the others if you search online sites such as Southern Exposure Seed Exchange http://www.southernexposure.com, which specializes in seed for the South, or Seed Savers Exchange www.seedsavers.org, a cooperative/commercial venture. Membership to the latter gets you a catalog larger than many phone books where people offer seeds that they have grown and collected.  There is often an interesting tale attached to these seeds. Of course there are many strictly commercial ventures out there in web land where you can purchase heirloom seeds, like Johnny’s Select Seed or Baker Creek Heirloom Seed, or you might be interested in Southern Seed Legacy http://anthropology.unt.edu/anthatunt-ssl.php, an effort of the anthropology program of the University of North Texas, which encourages seed saving and seed exchange among its members.  Membership starts at just $15 a year and entitles you to a directory and two free seed packets through their annual seed exchange. A quick search online will open the doors of seed exchanging for you. It’s a great way to maintain biodiversity and food security.


Until next month, Good Gardening

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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Gerald's Corner

8/1/2015

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As we consider making decisions about plant selections for our home gardens, we normally consider cold hardiness or cold tolerance, disease resistance, and insect resistance. Increasingly it’s becoming important that we consider heat and drought tolerance, both of which can directly impact success with plants in home landscapes when our weather pattern turns hot and dry. This is something that we cannot escape dealing with because it is a fact of life here in the deep South.

Even though LSU AgCenter horticulturist recommends several species of plants that will perform under our stressful summer and fall growing conditions, I’d like to focus on a group that performs great and continues to perform well in AgCenter plant trials. That is the Profusion series of zinnias, with hybrids representing a cross between the old cut flower type zinnias and the Mexican narrow leaf zinnias, producing flowers and foliage that are smaller than the old cut flower type but larger than the narrow leaf zinnias. They are available in five colors: Profusion white, orange, cherry, with Profusion fire and apricot having the most colorful flowers in the series and are among the best performers. These zinnias are popular among both home gardeners and landscape professionals because of overall performance including attracting butterflies, resistance to pest, and once again heat and drought tolerance. They perform very well with limited irrigation and thriving under hot dry conditions. Planting dates usually begin in mid – late April or May and may extend into the summer months. A late summer planting will ensure a strong crop of flowers into the fall primarily in September and October blooming until the first killing frost. Profusion zinnias benefit from deadheading – removing the old flowers which encourages the production of more flower buds leading to more continuous blooming.  

When chinch bugs affect lawns, specifically St Augustine, grass becomes pronounced when weather conditions become hot and dry especially during the summer months. I’ve looked at several St Augustine lawns where the home owner was concerned about areas of their lawn where the grass was turning straw colored  and dying in an increasingly expanding irregular circle. Usually at this time of the year, I know because of information from LSU AgCenter horticulturists and past experience, that chinch bug is most likely the issue. If you suspect a chinch bug problem, there is a test that you can perform in the lawn to confirm. Take about a gallon of water mix in 2 – 3 ounces of lemon scented liquid dishwashing detergent and pour in the transition area on the outer perimeter of the circle where the brown and straw colored grass meets the green grass. Wait a few minutes and if chinch bugs are present you will see them crawling around on the stolons and leaf blades of the grass. The most likely areas for chinch bugs is a lawn in sunny areas between the sidewalk and street or along driveways. As  soon as I notice lawns dying close to these areas I suspect chinch bugs since they like areas where the temperatures are the highest and these are the areas that absorb the most heat. There are several insecticide labeled for chinch bug control in lawns including bifenthrin, acephate, permethrin, malathion and cyfluthrin. The longer chinch bugs infestations are allowed to continue in a lawn the more likely it is that they will kill grass. I’ve seen several situations where the damage was so severe that the homeowner had to sod the area to replace dead St Augustine grass.  

I’m getting numerous calls from homeowners reporting serious defoliation of crape myrtles with the leaves being yellow to reddish in color. This is the result of serious infection from a foliage disease called cercospora leaf spot , which is a fungus disease that attacks crape myrtles especially during high moisture conditions like we had in mid-spring and very early summer.

Happy Gardening!!  

Gerald P. Roberts ​

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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    LPMGA

    A collection of articles submitted by LPMGA members and Agents from the LSU Ag Extension office in Lafayette Parish

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