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Gerald's Corner

9/1/2014

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Hello Gardeners,

This has been a tough year for lawn grass in Lafayette Parish and South Louisiana. I received numerous calls from homeowners concerned about the poor performance of their lawns, especially St. Augustine and Centipede grass. Upon evaluation of these lawns, I found many that had areas with two to three inches of thatch. Thatch is an accumulation of organic matter, primarily dead leaves and stems that cause serious problems in lawns. If a lawn feels spongy when walked upon, that often suggests a thatch problem. Thatch accumulates when organic matter accumulates faster than it can decompose. The roots of the lawn grass will grow into the thatch which can lead to an increase of insect and disease problems. The reason why many of the St. Augustine and Centipede lawns struggled this growing season relates to the unusually cold winter and cold injury because roots growing in the thatch were more susceptible to cold injury than the roots that would have been growing in soil. A thatch problem in a lawn has to be addressed by dethatching with either a motorized thatching machine or a dethatching rake. Removing thatch should be done in early to mid-April to allow an application of fertilizer. Removing thatch shocks the grass, so a fertilizer application is recommended in order to help the lawn grass to recover. The final issue with thatch is that it remains wet when rain comes frequently, but when the thatch dries it gets extremely dry. Neither situation is good for lawn grass.

One of the most common diseases of warm season turf grasses in Louisiana is Large Patch (also called Brown Patch). Every growing season, I get numerous calls from concerned gardeners regarding dead areas in their lawns. Brown Patch disease primarily occurs when night time temperatures begin to consistently drop below 70 degrees — in the fall, late winter and early spring. Since moisture also promotes Brown Patch activity, periods of rain make the disease spread rapidly. While brown patch can affect all warm season lawn grasses, it is usually more prevalent in St. Augustine lawns. The symptoms usually begin as a small irregular patches of brown areas in the lawn. With mild temperatures and rainfall these areas can enlarge rapidly. Once these areas of the grass are weakened and thinned by brown patch, weeds begin to invade. If a lawn has a history of brown patch disease, a couple of fall applications of fungicide can limit the impact of Brown Patch. Once conditions favor disease development, it is recommended that fungicide applications begin. For this area, that first application should be made between mid and late September, followed by a second application mid to late October. If conditions remain favorable for disease development into November and December, additional fungicide applications may be necessary. Since many fungicides labeled for lawns will have activity on brown patch, homeowners should be able to find these fungicides at retail nurseries and garden centers as well as feed and seed stores. According to Dr. Ron Strahan, Lawn & Turf Specialist with the LSU AgCenter, the two most effective fungicides for addressing brown patch problems in lawns are fungicides containing azoxystrobin or thiophanate methyl. If brown patch is not visible and the homeowner wants to be proactive, then granular fungicides are recommended. If however brown patch has already been identified in the lawn, the liquid fungicides applied as a spray are most effective. If we have a mild winter where the lawn does not go fully dormant, it is possible that brown patch will be present throughout the winter months and into the spring. If that happens, then homeowners may want to consider applying several applications of fungicides through winter and into the spring.

Finally, I am also getting calls from homeowners who are asking for fertilizer recommendations for their St. Augustine lawns. According to Dr. Strahan, St. Augustine responds to three applications of fertilizer annually: in mid-April , mid –June and Mid- August. In my opinion, it is now too late to fertilize St. Augustine lawns. Fertilizing now, especially with a fertilizer containing nitrogen, can aggravate brown patch disease. It can delay dormancy which could make St. Augustine lawns more susceptible to cold injury. There are fertilizers available called winterizing fertilizers that can be applied in fall, but here in South Louisiana if a homeowner decides to apply a winterizing fertilizer, it should not contain any nitrogen (N), it should contain primarily potassium (K).

Happy Gardening!!!
​Gerald P. Roberts

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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What Plant Am I?

9/1/2014

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In the fall, when spring and summer flowers are fading, I come into my own. Planted in the spring, I send up large, broad leaves which last all summer.

Snails and slugs are the bane of my existence. By September, my leaves turn brown and unsightly, only to be followed by chalice-shaped blossoms with 6 stamens.

​My colors range from pale pink to white, with some cultivars in shades of lilac to purple. Plant me four inches deep, six inches apart, in consistently moist soil, with a pH of 6.1 to 7.5. I am hardy to Zone 5.

​I'm propagated by division of my corms, which are highly toxic, as are my leaves and flowers. Deer and rodents will not eat me. In fact, in 1862, Catherine Wilson of England was hanged for the murder of a woman she had nursed, and had persuaded to change her will in Catherine's favor. Seven other people, and one or two husbands, died in similar circumstances. The poison used was made from me; however, I do have a legitimate use in patients with gout and Familial Mediterranean fever when properly prepared. 

​Do you know what plant am I?
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Credit: naturephoto-cz.com/
Naked Ladies, Autumn crocus, or Meadow saffron 
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Between the Rows

9/1/2014

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Well, the weather is still hot – very hot. Even when I try to work early or late in the day, I’m absolutely soaked within 5 minutes of being out. I guess it’s worth it though. Fresh, organically grown vegetables right from my garden are incomparable and well worth the effort.

​My organic ethic has been a bit challenged this year. I have been inundated by stink bugs and they have ruined almost all of my tomatoes. I did, however, get some and they were really delicious, but I had to pick them the minute I saw the first trace of color. Fortunately, tomatoes ripen well off the vine as long as they have warmth. They don’t even need light, just warmth. So, tomatoes on the kitchen counter ripen quite nicely. That was the only way that I could get ripe tomatoes this year. I did not see many leaf-footed bugs this year after the first rash of juveniles that I managed to kill, but suddenly, I am seeing a bunch of large adults. In fact, yesterday I saw seven adults, six of them mating. Fortunately, when you do the Louisiana Stomp on them that stops their laying eggs. So hopefully, the next generation will be even smaller than this year’s was. I am also seeing more and more assassin bugs. The first year here, with the surrounding cane fields constantly doused with insecticides, I saw only two or three assassin bugs all year. After a year of no insecticide on my property, I saw a few more. Then, the cane farmer sold the field to a developer, so no more insecticide and the number of assassin bugs exploded. It was wonderful to see.

When the stinkbugs became too much, I did resort to using insecticides, but all of them were organic and, of course, I used Integrated Pest Management (IPM). With IPM, you do not just randomly spray every plant with a broad-spectrum pesticide. Instead, you first identify the insect that is causing the problem and then use the method that is the least damaging to the environment and your health to control that insect. This can start with hand picking and dropping them into soapy water (gloved hand or tongs, of course). If that is not possible, for instance because the insects are too numerous, or too small, or because they fly away, you can move to spraying the insect(s) with soapy water or water with a little oil added. This smothers the insect and in the case of flying insects, makes it difficult for them to fly, allowing you to hand pick them. If that is not working sufficiently and there is still too much damage to your crop, you can move to using a product that is very specific to the particular type of insect causing the damage, like Bacillus thurigensis, commonly called ‘Bt’ that is specific for certain insects, but is harmless to fish, birds, and mammals.

Bt is a naturally occurring, soil-borne bacterium commonly found throughout the world. It has been used since the 1950s for natural insect control and all subspecies are approved for organic gardens. It consists of a spore, which when consumed by certain insects, develops in the gut and poisons the insect, causing it to stop feeding. The gut of these insects is alkaline, which is what makes Bt work on them while remaining harmless to birds, fish and mammals, whose guts are acidic negating the effect of the bacteria. Adding to the safety profile, Bt biodegrades quickly in sunlight.

​There are a number of subspecies of B. thurigensis that are toxic to certain insects at certain stages. Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Bt-k) controls tent caterpillars, gypsy moth, cabbage looper, tomato hornworn and other leaf -eating caterpillars. It is most effective when applied during the 1st and 2nd instars. Bt-k is supplied under many trade names, like Monteray Bt.

Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis is highly specific for use against mosquito, black fly and fungus gnat larvae. It can be applied to water sources safely and is 95 - 100% effective on mosquito larvae within 24 hours of ingestion. This application is especially effective because it kills the larvae before they reach the adult, biting stage.

Bacillus thuringiensis var. san diego (Bt-sd) and Bacillus thuringiensis var. tenebrionis (Bt-t) are used against the Colorado potato beetle, which has developed resistance to multiple chemical insecticides. They are also considered the most effective control for leaf-eating beetle species. They can also be used to control elm leaf beetle and are used on potatoes, eggplant, tomato and elm. Again, this biological pesticide is most effective in the early larval stages. In fact, they are completely ineffective on adult beetles.

Finally, Bacillus popilliae is used against Japanese beetles in lawns, causing milky spore disease. Milky spore again affects the larval form of the Japan beetle. When mildy spore is applied to the lawn it infects the beetle larvae. When each infected larva dies and decomposes, billions of new spores are released into the soil. This is not a quick solution, but rather requires time for the bacteria and its spores to saturate the soil. Being a natural process though, only one application is required. The bacteria will continue to multiply on their own as long as larvae are present. When there are no more grubs to be found, the bacteria sporulate and go dormant, waiting for the next infestation of Japanese beetle larvae.

​These products come under many trade names like Dipel, Thuricide, Milky Spore, Monteray Bt, Mosquito Dunks and more. The important thing is to look for ‘Bacillus thuringiensis’ in the Active Ingredients. If you absolutely need an insecticide that is broadly effective against many insects, I recommend one containing spinosad. This should not, of course, be your first choice when reaching for an insecticide, but it is an effective, organic choice. Spinosad is relatively new. It is a combination of two compounds produced by the fermentation of certain microbes found in soil. It is considered ‘broad-spectrum’ because it is toxic to a wide variety of insects, but it is relatively non-toxic to mammals and beneficial insects. Part of the reason it is not toxic to beneficials is that the product must be ingested to be toxic, unlike many chemical insecticides that are toxic on contact, even to the dry residue. Most beneficials eat other insects or their eggs rather than leaves or other parts of plants, so they do not take in spinosad. Nonetheless, I prefer to apply an insecticide product containing spinosad late in the day, after the pollinators, like bees, have returned to their nests. I also try to inspect the plant that I am treating to insure that there are no other beneficials, such as mantises, lacewings, ladybugs, assassin bugs, OR THEIR LARVAE, on the plant. Please excuse the shouting, but the larvae of most of these insects are truly the workhorses, eating many more harmful insects than the adults do. You should be able to identify the larval stage of each of these beneficials. Hint, they look nothing like the adult.

It’s also helpful to identify the eggs of the good and the bad bugs. If you can eliminate the eggs of the bad bugs, you will never have to bother buying insecticide. Some products containing spinosad are Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Leaf Miner Spray, Captain Jack’s DeadBug Brew Concentrate, Southern Ag Conserve Naturalyte Insect Control, and Bonide Colorado Potato Beetle Concentrate.

It’s still time to plant here in southern Louisiana. Through early September, plant Limas, both bush and pole, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, English peas and cucumbers, as well as bush beans, cabbage, Irish potatoes, pumpkins and tomato plants. Through September you can plant beets, carrots, celery, Swiss chard, Chinese cabbage, collards, kohlrabi, lettuces, mustard, radishes and turnips. 
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MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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    LPMGA

    A collection of articles submitted by LPMGA members and Agents from the LSU Ag Extension office in Lafayette Parish

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