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Gerald's Corner

11/1/2015

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Fall is an exciting time of year for gardeners as temperature turn mild and gardening is much less of a chore compared to when day time temperatures are hot. As we progress into fall and warm season bedding plants which added color to our landscapes during warmer months begin to fade, it becomes time to start making plans to add plants to our gardens and landscapes to provide color during the fall, winter and spring months. This was a highly unusual year for many plants in our landscapes because of the rainy weather pattern in the spring followed by drought and above average temperature during the summer. Root rots were a problem I encountered and discussed with numerous gardeners this growing season, including problems which occurred with shrubs, trees, bedding plants and lawns. As a result, many of the plants in landscapes never reached their full potential nor performed as well as they had in previous years.

Many gardeners told me that they had to provide extra care to plants in order to help plants that were stressed from our previously mentioned weather patterns in spring and summer. Fortunately for gardeners as the seasons go and come we have great opportunities to add exciting plants to our gardens. Fall presents a great opportunity to plant! There was a time when it was a normal practice to wait until the spring to plant cool season bedding plants in our gardens. However we now know that planting in fall, as evidenced by numerous AgCenter trials of cool season bedding plants, trees, and shrubs, we know that fall planting provides several benefits or advantages over spring planted bedding plants. Planting shrubs, trees, and cool season bedding plants in the period from mid – October to mid – December provides plants the time to establish very strong root systems which means more healthy plants that will out perform those planted in the spring. So actually we get a better investment by enjoying color in our gardens in the fall, winter, and exploding into a spectacular display in the spring. Now is the time to plant cool season bedding plants such as pansies, dianthus, foxgloves, snapdragons, violas, just to name a few.

For bedding plants, good bed preparation is very important because it can directly impact plant performance. It is important to first remove all existing weeds, till or turn the bed to a depth of at least 8 inches, then spread a layer of organic matter such as compost, peat moss or aged manure. Next, sprinkle an all purpose fertilizer and then thoroughly mix or till all these materials, smooth the bed, and then transplant, being careful not to plant too deeply which can lead to crown or stem rot. Plant no deeper than the plant was growing in the cell pack or pot.

Once transplants are in the soil, then lightly sprinkle a weed preventer such as Preen Garden Weed Preventer or Miracle Gro Shake & Feed Plus Weed Preventer. Either one of these will suppress the germination of weeds in the flower bed. Once the weed preventer is sprinkled on the surface, moderately water the beds to settle the soil around the transplants, and firm of the soil in the bed. At this point all that is left to do is add mulch. The benefits of mulching are further suppressing of weeds, conservation of moisture, lessens soil compaction, and adding some freeze protection, and also as the mulch breaks down, it adds nutrients to the soil and helps to improve the soil structure making it better for root system expansion and plant growth. Conservation of moisture is very important to root establishment which is a priority with all newly planted plants including bedding plants, shrubs or trees.
Some of the Louisiana Super Plants for cool season planting are Sorbet Violas, Amazon Dianthus, Foxglove Camelot Series, ornamental kale, and ornamental cabbage. Some of the other Louisiana Super Plants for consideration and planting this fall are Shoal Creek Vitex, Evergreen Sweetbay Magnolia, Willow Oak, and Southern Sugar Maple.

Finally I’d like to mention a Louisiana Super Plant released this fall. Although this is not a new plant, it does perform well in our southern gardens. This plant is Homestead Purple Verbena, which is classified as a hardy perennial across Louisiana. It can be planted in mid-fall or late winter, or early spring. For best performance it should be planted in full to partial sun in well drained soil. It grows an average of 10-12 inches tall and 18-24 inches wide producing numerous clusters of deep purple flowers. It has a long blooming season usually running from later winter through early summer and into the fall months. Its flowers are rich in nectar and attract butterflies and bees. Deadheading enhances flowering and it is considered low maintenance.

Remember all Louisiana Super Plants are University Tested and Industry Approved!!
HAPPY GARDENING!

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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Between the Rows

11/1/2015

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Hi Everyone.

You should be in the middle of your fall harvest now, enjoying this gorgeous weather and also doing some cleanup for the winter. Now is the perfect time to clean up, getting rid of those dead plants, taking care of tools, etc. Remember to either bag and throw away or burn any plant material that is diseased or heavily infested by insects or full of seeds, but compost most stuff rather than throw it away. Every piece that you can recycle within your property adds to your level of sustainability. Creating your own compost, rather than purchasing it in bags is a great If you’re not composting now, you really should start. You know that compost adds organic matter to the soil, as well as providing a bit of nutrition, but the thing that it does the most is feed and support the micro herd. Those little guys work so hard supplying nutrients to our plants and keeping the soil open to allow air and water to move through easily, that we should really do everything that we can to help them out. That includes providing them with compost, avoiding tilling as much as possible, avoiding chemicals, which kill them, and keeping the soil covered with organic mulch to prevent dramatic temperature swings, maintain even soil moisture, and provide a continuous flow of organic material for the micro herd.


There are a lot of ways to make compost. There’s the traditional way of building a holder or multiple holders for the waste to be composted, loading up the first one, periodically turning the material from one container to the next one until the material is well broken down, and then putting it on the garden. There’s a lot of material on composting, from books and magazines, to tons on the internet, so I’m not going to do a treatise on composting, but I will mention a couple of easy ways to make compost that don’t involve turning or building or much else that involves hard work.

Here’s one method that works especially well if you don’t have very large quantities of waste. Just keep a blender reserved for kitchen wastes on the counter or any other easily accessible area. It has to be easy to reach or you won’t do it. As each bit of waste occurs, add it to the blender and replace the cover. When the blender gets about half full, add some water and blend it up. Really grind it up good. You want tiny, tiny pieces. Now take it to the garden, pull back the mulch over an area, pour on the contents of the blender and replace the mulch. Done! The tiny bits - thanks to the blender - will break down very quickly, providing nutrients and humus for the micro herd and through them, for the plants.

But what can you do when you have larger quantities to deal with — either because you cook for a lot of people or you’re including lots of garden waste and leaves, too? Well, just designate a shady area that is both out of the way and readily accessible to the garden. Pile all of your stuff there. The pile should be at least three feet square, but more is fine. Once everything is piled up, water it well, cover it with a tarp, and forget it for a year – with one exception. During dry weather you can check it periodically and add water if it gets too dry. It should be about as damp as a wrung out sponge. But you only have to do that if you want to maximize the output. When you take that tarp off at the end of the year, you will have a beautiful pile of compost. All you have to do is move it to the garden. Thus the reason for choosing a spot with easy access to the garden. There may be a few large pieces that aren’t fully broken down yet, but all you have to do is sift or pull them out and throw them on the start of next year’s pile.


Okay. For planting during November, you can still plant carrots and radishes if you do it really quickly before the end of the first week of the month. You have all month to plant garlic, shallots, spinach and turnips. The recommended varieties of shallots are Matador and Prisma for bulbs and Evergreen for greens. You have more choices with spinach – Bloomsdale Long-Standing, Melody (AAS, DM), Unipak 151 (DM) and Tyee (DM) are all recommended savoyed or wrinkled varieties. By the way, ’DM’ after the name stands for downy mildew resistance, and since that is one of the worst problems we have with spinach, I think it pays to choose downy mildew resistant seed. If you prefer the smooth-leaf types, choose Ballet or Tiger Cat, neither of which is resistant to downy mildew. When selecting turnip seed, the recommended varieties are Just Right (AAS), Purple Top, Shogoin, Tokyo Cross (AAS), and White Lady.

If you planted carrots in October, remember that you should side dress them with 6 to 7 pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer or 4 to 5 pounds of 8-24-24 per 100 foot row, three to four weeks after planting. If you haven’t planted yet, make a note for next month. Side dress with 4 to 5 pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer or 3 to 4 pounds of 8-24-24 for garlic, but do it four to six weeks after transplanting. If you planted Irish potatoes during August or September, you should side dress them with 6 to 8 pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer or 5 to 6 pounds of 8-24-24 when the plants are 6 to 10 inches tall. You should also fertilize your cole crops, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, kale, kohlrabi and mustard, with 5 to 6 pounds of 8-8-8 or 3 to 4 pounds of 8-24-24. Do this 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting and again in 2 to 3 weeks. “Cole,” by the way, is a description of plants in the Cruciferae or mustard family that are descended from a wild cabbage found around the Mediterranean and Asia Minor. They are also called Brassicas. “Cole” is often confused with “cold,” which seems to make sense as they actually are grown during the cold part of the year, and often taste even better after being exposed to a light frost, but the proper description is “cole.”

Well that’s about it for November. I hope you continue to enjoy this beautiful weather. If only it would rain a little. Remember when we were complaining about too much?

Until next time, Happy Gardening

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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