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Gerald's Corner

12/1/2015

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For this month’s horticulture article I’d like to share information regarding timely issues in home landscapes as evidenced by the calls and emails I’m currently getting from gardeners. In the Fall of the year — especially if we have a lot of rain — we get numerous calls regarding brown patch disease in lawns. Even though brown patch disease can be problematic in other warm season turf grasses such as centipede and Bermuda, the majority of calls are regarding issues with St Augustine grass.  Brown Patch is a fungus disease caused by a pathogen called Rhizoctonia solani. It has been referred to as a spring-and-fall disease since it has a tendency to be more active when we have moderate temperatures (60 – 75 degrees) especially and high moisture. At 80 degrees and above, and under dry conditions, the activity of the fungus decreases significantly. Once temperatures begin to moderate in the fall the first indication of an infection in the lawn is a small-to-moderate irregular brown/tan circle which increases in diameter as temperatures moderate and rainfall increases. Within the circle there are green blades of grass among the tan straw colored grass.   

Additionally the grass within the irregular brown circle can be pulled easily because it is rotted at the  base.  Once a lawn has a history of brown patch disease it is more likely to show up anytime temperatures moderates and there is high moisture. In St. Augustine the grass takes on a yellowish, yellow–orange color, in centipede it will lean more toward a purplish color. Once daytime temperatures reach 80 degrees F or above, even in the summer months there may be areas that get brown patch disease usually in shady areas under or next to trees or in enclosed back yards where there is little air movement. Issues that increase the incidence of brown patch are watering late in the afternoons which allows leaf blade to remain wet overnight. Applying fertilizer past the end of August or fertilizing before the first or second week in April can increase brown patch disease, and thus heavy thatch problems. When brown patch occurs, treat promptly with a fungicide containing one of the following active ingredients. The following fungicides are labeled to control brown patch diseases in lawn grasses, Myclobutanil (Ferti – lome F Stop, Green Light Fung Away, Spectracide Immunox), Thiophanate – Methyl (Ferti – lome Halt, Scott’s Lawn Fungus Control, Southern Ag Systemic Fungicide), Triadimefon (formerly Bayleton, Bayer         
Advanced Fungus Control, High Yield Lawn Fungicide). Two applications 10 – 14 days apart provide the best control. On a personal note, let me emphasize that increased rainfall not only interferes with effectiveness of fungicides but it also increases fungus activity. Always follow label instructions in terms of safety, recommended rates and application.                  

The surge in popularity of citrus in home gardens is at an all-time high due to it being several years since we’ve experienced freeze intense enough to kill mature citrus trees. Satsuma is very popular due to the high quality that can be produced by homeowners and the ease at which they can be peeled because of their loose skin compared to sweet oranges. Keep in mind also that when the decision to plant citrus is made, cold hardiness must be a priority. Kumquats and Satsuma are the most cold hardy with Lemons and Lime being the least cold hardy. Sweet Oranges, Navel Oranges and Grapefruit fall somewhere in between Kumquats and Limes in terms of cold hardiness. One of the most common complaints that I get from homeowners is a condition referred to as puffy fruit in Satsumas. Puffy fruit are mostly a problem on young, vigorous growing Satsuma trees. These fruit are unusually large, have thick rinds and relatively dry flesh. As the tree becomes older, the occurrence of puffy fruit decreases. There is some thought that trees go through a juvenile stage and once passed this stage, fewer puffy fruit are produced. On older mature trees, even though it occurs a lot less, puffiness can occur, but these fruit are thought to be due to late blooms that set fruit during periods of warm weather. Although little can be done to prevent puffy fruit, good growing conditions, proper fertility, pest control, and time will help to reduce this condition. Two of the more popular types of Satsuma are Brown’s Select, which begins ripening in mid–October, and Owari, which produces excellent quality fruit and begins ripening from early to mid–November. The fruit of Satsuma keeps well on the tree and can be picked and eaten over a three-to-four-week period and still maintain quality. However this year, I’m getting a lot of calls from homeowners saying the squirrels are damaging Satsuma on the tree.                

A gardener had a question regarding sooty mold on gardenias. The question: “Since sooty mold is the result of sucking insects — in this case white flies producing honeydew that falls on the leaves giving rise to sooty mold growth—what is an effective material to control the whiteflies without harming butterflies, hummingbirds or lizards?”                 

Sooty mold grows on a variety of ornamental plants in home landscapes; it is non-parasitic and does not penetrate the plant tissue. Sooty mold does, however, prevent sunlight from reaching the leaves thus interfering with photosynthesis. It is a result of sucking insects, such as aphids, mealy bugs, scale and whiteflies, secreting honeydew. Horticultural oils are effective and non–toxic. These kill insects by coating and suffocating them. In this process, it is important to coat the surface and undersides of the leaves. Make three applications, carefully following rates and intervals on the label. It is generally recommended that treating every 10 – 14 days is effective. Also, horticultural oils do not leave behind any toxic residues that would negatively impact butterflies, hummingbirds or lizards.

Happy Gardening!!  
      
Gerald P. Roberts​

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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Between the Rows

12/1/2015

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Vegetable Gardening with MaryAnn Armbruster
The weather is getting a little cooler now, perfect for those winter crops. Things are slowing down now with the coming of winter.  It’s a great time to clean up debris, clean and repair tools, sort and clean seeds that you collected over the summer and other such maintenance chores.   There are a few little tools/tricks that I particularly like.  One is a really easy method for oiling my tools.  It’s kind of a hassle to always have to get out the oil each time I finish using a tool; to make it easier, I keep a bucket of sand near where I store the tools.   I poured oil – virtually any kind will work – over the sand until it’s fully moistened.  Then, when I’m finished using a tool, after cleaning it but before putting it away, I just drive it into the sand.  It coats the tools thoroughly, and I’m ready to put it away all oiled and protected.  

Another thing that I hate is tool handles that either are too slippery or ones that get damaged, making them splinter-y (is that a word?).  Anyway, you know what I mean.  To deal with these handles, I keep a roll of hockey tape around.  The tape is really easy to use, the roll costs less than $5 and it lasts.  (I’m guessing at the price because I’m not sure of today’s prices.  I bought my roll in California, almost twenty years ago – see - it really does last!) 

The third is Velcro.  Yes, Velcro - in a roll.  You can buy small pieces of Velcro in garden centers for huge prices, or you can go to someplace that sells sewing supplies and get ten yards of  a ¼-inch roll for about $10-12.  I use it for tying up plants mostly, but I’ve also used it to repair fences and hold up trellises.  It’s tough and it lasts, too.  I’ve had it functioning in the weather for well over a year.  The color fades, but the product is still there, little hooks holding on to little loops, holding together whatever I put it on.  Anyway, give those a try and let me know what you think of them.  

Even if you did not ask, the answer is: Yes, you can plant in December.  If you hurry, you can plant radishes and garlic through the first of the month, then you can plant mustard, spinach, shallots and turnips all month long.  Wait until mid-December to plant English or sugar snap peas, and onions and leeks (from sets only, it’s too late for seeds). The varieties of mustard greens that are recommended for our area are Florida Broadleaf, Greenwave, Red Giant, Southern Giant Curled, Savannah and Tendergreen.

If you planted beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, rutabaga, kohlrabi or lettuces last month it’s time to fertilize (3 to 4 weeks after planting).  Use 4 to 5 pounds of 8-24-24 or 6 to 7 pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer to side dress them.  Remember that your garlic, onions and shallots need to be side dressed with 3 to 4 pounds of 8-24-24 or 4 to 5 pounds of 8-8-8.  Remember, these recommendations are per 100 foot row.

​I hope you’re enjoying the rain we’re having now – and that it doesn’t get carried away and cause flooding – I know the plants are. I hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving, and I wish you all a safe, peaceful and blessed Christmas.  See you next year.

Until then, good gardening!

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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    LPMGA

    A collection of articles submitted by LPMGA members and Agents from the LSU Ag Extension office in Lafayette Parish

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