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Louisiana Native Plants: Autumn's Hidden Gems

10/14/2024

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By: Mandy Hatman
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As the days grow shorter and the air crisp, Louisiana gardens can burst with color and life thanks to native plants. These autumn stars not only provide beautiful fall interest but also support local ecosystems.

Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana)
Native to Louisiana, this shrub steals the show in autumn with its clusters of vibrant purple berries. The berries persist well into winter, providing food for birds and adding a pop of color to the landscape. Beautyberry thrives in partial shade to full sun and is drought-tolerant once established.

Gulf Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris)
This native grass, found naturally in Louisiana, produces a stunning display of pink to purple feathery plumes that catch the light beautifully in fall. It's drought-tolerant and attracts butterflies. Plant in full sun for the best color show.

Winged Sumac (Rhus copallinum)
Native to Louisiana, winged sumac offers brilliant red fall foliage and red fruit clusters that persist into winter. It's an excellent choice for attracting wildlife and adding autumn color to the landscape.

Late Purple Aster (Symphyotrichum patens)
This native aster, found throughout Louisiana, blooms in late summer through fall, providing nectar for pollinators preparing for winter. Its lavender to deep purple flowers are a beautiful addition to the autumn garden.

Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
Native to the southeastern United States, including parts of Louisiana, this hydrangea offers multi-season interest. It truly shines in fall when its leaves turn brilliant shades of red, orange, and purple. It prefers partial shade and moist, well-drained soil.

By incorporating these native plants into your garden, you're not only creating a beautiful autumn landscape but also providing critical support for local wildlife. Remember, while fall is a great time to enjoy these plants, it's also an excellent time to plant them. Many natives establish well when planted in autumn, developing strong root systems over the winter to support vigorous
growth in spring.
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Fall Planting Guide for Louisiana Gardens

10/7/2024

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 By: Mandy Hatman

Fall in Louisiana offers ideal conditions for many plants. The soil is still warm, encouraging root growth, while cooler air temperatures reduce stress on plants. Here's your guide to fall planting in the Pelican State.

Best Bulbs to Plant Now for Spring Blooms
In Louisiana's warm climate, many traditional spring bulbs need special care. Plant these in late November to early December:
  • Narcissus (Daffodils): Choose heat-tolerant varieties like 'Carlton', 'Ice Follies', or 'Sweetness'.
  • Louisiana Iris: Plant these native beauties in moist areas.
  • Crinum Lilies: These heat-loving bulbs thrive in Louisiana.
  • Amaryllis: Plant outdoors in south Louisiana for spring blooms.
  • Tulips and Hyacinths: Pre-chill these bulbs for 6-8 weeks before planting. Treat as annuals in Louisiana's warm climate.

Cool-Season Vegetables for Louisiana Gardens
Plant these from September to February, depending on the specific vegetable:
  • Leafy Greens: Lettuce, spinach, collards, mustard greens, and Swiss chard
  • Root Vegetables: Carrots, radishes, turnips, and beets
  • Brassicas: Broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage
  • Alliums: Onions and garlic (plant October to December)
  • Peas: English and snow peas (plant September to October)

Trees and Shrubs That Thrive When Planted in Louisiana's Fall
Fall is the best time to plant woody plants in Louisiana. Plant these from October to March:
  • Deciduous Trees: Southern live oak, bald cypress, southern magnolia
  • Fruit Trees: Citrus, figs, persimmons (plant in early spring in north Louisiana)
  • Shrubs: Azaleas, camellias, viburnums, and native hollies

Planting Tips for Louisiana
  • Prepare soil well, incorporating organic matter. Louisiana soils benefit from added compost.
  • In south Louisiana, create raised beds to improve drainage in heavy soils.
  • Water thoroughly after planting and monitor moisture levels, especially if rainfall is scarce.
  • Apply a layer of mulch to regulate soil temperature and retain moisture.
  • For vegetables, consider using row covers to protect from unexpected cold snaps.
  • Follow LSU AgCenter guidelines for specific planting dates in your region of Louisiana.

By taking advantage of Louisiana's fall planting season, you'll set your garden up for a beautiful spring display and a productive cool-season vegetable harvest. Remember to adjust planting times based on your specific location within the state.

Happy planting, Louisiana gardeners!
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June/July 2015

8/1/2024

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I'm a bushy annual native to Africa and Asia, happiest in a woodland bed, shady border, hanging baskets or in a patio planter. Container plants may be brought indoors for winter bloom. In Zone 9, I can be seeded directly outdoors in early spring. In Zones 10 and 11, I may overwinter. I can tolerate some morning sun, but need shade from the heat of the afternoon sun in hot climates. My soil needs to be well-drained, but moist.

My main attraction is my small lilac-blue, pink, rose, white or burgundy flowers, and mint-looking mounding foliage. Inside my upper and lower-lobed lips, a pair of fused yellow stamens resemble a poultry wishbone, giving me my nickname. My size ranges from six to twelve inches tall, and just as wide.

My seeds need light to germinate, so cover lightly or press gently into moistened soil. Germination occurs at 10 to 15 days at 70 degrees. Pinch back the growing tip of my stem to encourage branching. Keep me watered, cool, and with good air circulation. My "Summer Wave" series is tolerant of heavy rains, heat, and occasional dry soil. Do you know what plant I am?



Torenia fourieri : Wishbone flower, Clown rose, Blue torenia
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Devenport Report

4/1/2018

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Patience.

This is probably one of the hardest virtues for someone to achieve, especially when it comes to dealing with plants and hard freezes. Almost everyone in Acadiana has had some type of freeze injury to plants in their landscapes. Many of you have already pulled up some of the brown plants that were injured but maybe you should have had a little more patience and given the plants a chance to recover on their own. If your budget allows you to move along faster than Mother Nature, that is okay but for many patience is your key.

I was at a home yesterday, the client's fire bush was brown, and he had pulled back all the mulch away and wanted me to take a closer look. At first, I thought the plant was dead but as I got down on my knees and looked closer, I saw evidence of small reddish leaves coming up at the base of one of the branches. You need to remember that the roots of plants benefited from the warm soil temperature and received little to no damage from the cold. That being said, all the stored food in the root system will be going into those buds that survived the cold and the plant will take off and begin to fill in the space it once occupied last year.

The citrus in your yard follow the same trend. Have patience and wait to see if any small buds begin to appear on the trunk and branches of your trees, then prune the dead wood above the new growth.

Some palm trees may not send up a new spear leaf until August or September so remember to practice Patience!

Dan Devenport

Dan Devenport is the Parish Horticulture Agent for both Lafayette and Vermilion parishes.

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Devenport Report

2/1/2017

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Effects of Cold Weather On Citrus

​You may be wondering what you should do to your citrus trees after the recent cold weather we experienced. In a typical year, trees receive gradual colder weather that when coupled with shorter day length, promote hardiness within the plant. The recent warm temperatures and colder than expected weather has caused some damage to your trees. Fruit and leaves have begun to fall off your trees prematurely as the result of the freezing temperatures they received. Some fruit became damaged beyond use but others with thicker skin like grapefruit appear to be fine.
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I have been getting calls regarding the pruning of limbs and branches that are showing some signs of damage and I am advising homeowners to have patience and wait until spring to prune. Warmer temperatures will promote new spring growth, Mother Nature will tell how much damage she caused, and you will be able to determine how far back you may need to prune back the branches on your trees. In addition, pruning often promotes new growth and I am sure that winter is not over and new growth is more susceptible to damage from freezing temperatures than older growth. Your trees may look bad and you cannot stand to look at them, but again, be patient.
If you want to be productive, rake the fallen leaves and fruit from under your trees if you are able to do so.

Lemon and lime trees are less hardy than kumquat and satsuma trees. All other citrus fall somewhere in between the two hardiness levels.

Once spring has arrived and you address the damage, use a citrus/fruit tree fertilizer to help your plants bounce back from the winter.

Dan Devenport

Dan Devenport is the Parish Horticulture Agent for both Lafayette and Vermilion parishes.

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Devenport Report

1/1/2017

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Well, it’s been about 6 months that I’ve been assigned to the Lafayette Parish Extension Service as the new horticulturist replacing Gerald Roberts. I am enjoying the move tremendously and want to thank you for all of the support you have given me. Sharing knowledge and experiences are the best things I can offer to you and I hope to learn more about your organization and how I can better serve you in my position. Again, thank you, Master Gardeners, for your kindness and support.
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Seven LPMGA Members Toured Four School Gardens In Vermilion Parish In December, 2016. The Interaction Between The Groups From The Different Schools Was Amazing! With That Being Done, I Asked The Master Gardeners If They Would Be Interested In Doing A Program For The School Garden Champions In Vermilion Parish And they agreed.

I Spoke With Ellen Arceneaux , Assistant Superintendent Of Curriculum & Instruction Of The Standing (L-R) Dan Devenport. Celeste Hay, Lpss, Betsy Palmer, Suzanne Lasseigne, Dean Koppfler, Mary Kramer. Seated: Theresa Guidry And Candy Bienvenu. Vermilion Parish School Board And We’Re Working On Such A Project And Possibly In August, Doing A Break-Out Session During The Teacher In-Service Training For Vermilion Parish School Teachers. I’m Looking At Inviting The Vermilion Group To The Cook-Off On January 21, 2017, For Them To See All We’re Doing In Lafayette.

Da Devenport

Dan Devenport is the Parish Horticulture Agent for both Lafayette and Vermilion parishes.

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Gerald's Corner

4/1/2016

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Hello Master Gardeners,
​
April presents us with more opportunities to expand our gardening activities. April affords us additional warm or hot-weather vegetables to plant. April allows us to plant many vegetables that will be more productive if planted this month instead of waiting. The earlier certain vegetables are planted, the more productive they are. Especially if they can avoid very high temperatures when they are at the peak of their productive cycle and also if they are less challenged by insect pests. Vegetables that are recommended to be planted in April are cantaloupe, collards, corn, cucumber, eggplant transplants, snapbeans, Southern peas, squashes, watermelon and tomato transplants. Tomatoes are staked to keep the plants form sprawling on the ground where the fruit would be more likely to rot. Wait for the first flowers to appear, and place the stake on the opposite side of the plant’s stem. All of the flower clusters will grow from the same side of the stem and this will keep developing fruit from getting caught between the stake and the stem.

For those who love to plant herbs, basil, sesame, lemon balm, mints, lemon grass, lemon verbena and rosemary can be planted in April. Excellent hot weather vegetables that can be planted in late April include eggplant, peanuts, pumpkin, Southern peas, hot pepper, lima beans, luffa gourds, and okra.

Pruning of spring flowering shrubs such as spirea, viburnum, quince, azalea, camellia, jasmine and mock orange can be done as soon as they complete their blooming period. Remember though, that pruning should be the result of a specific purpose. Unless you are trying to achieve a clipped formal hedge, pruning should be done to preserve the natural shape of the shrub. Clipping or shearing creates a hedge look, but if you’re trying to lower the height of a shrub, selective pruning should be done by taking the tallest branch or shoot and lowering it by cutting down into the shrub. Then take the next longest and continue this procedure, moving on to the next tallest branch until the shrub is lowered to the desired height. By selectively pruning, you preserve the more natural shape of the shrub instead of shearing across the top making it look more like a hedge.

Be sure to mulch newly planted beds or shrubs or bedding plants with a 1 -2 inch layer of leaves, pine straw, pine bark, or other organic material. The benefits of mulching include suppression or control of weeds, conservation of moisture, reduced soil compaction, and improved soil structure. As mulch decomposes, it provides nutrients to the plants and moderates soil temperatures.

Generally, during hot dry weather spider mites become active and the damage may show up on many vegetables and ornamentals. Spider mites are not easily detected by the naked eye. Using a magnifying glass to inspect the plants, look for tiny red or green eight-legged mites. The foliage of infested plants appears dull, dusty and unhealthy, and eventually turns brown. The spider mites are located primarily under the leaves. Spray with a horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, Malathion or a miticide called Kelthane.

Plant caladiums this month. Caladiums are excellent for shady areas and combine beautifully with ferns, begonias, liriope, impatiens, hosta and coleus. Some outstanding perennials that many nurseries have available at this time of the year in gallon containers include perennial salvia, bee balm, butterfly weed, chrysanthemum, coneflower, coreopsis, four – o’clock, gaillardia, gerbera daisy, daylily, mallow, Goldsturm rudbeckia, sedum, Shasta daisy, stokesia, verbena, yarrow, and violets. Even though some nurseries may still have cool season annuals for sale, think twice before purchasing those for transplanting since cool season annuals will struggle in hot temperatures. Even though petunia will tolerate some heat, even the heat-tolerant ones like the Wave series may last longer but still tend to struggle in the intense heat in late June and into July and August.

Azaleas with leaves that have tiny light spots all over them have been attacked by the azalea lace bugs. Treat with Malathion or Orthene (acephate) as needed through the summer and fall. Any damage that has already occurred will not go away, but insecticide applications will prevent further damage. Spray crape myrtles with mancozeb, chlorothalonil, or other labeled fungicides to control powdery mildew. Powdery mildew appears as a white powdery material on the leaves. Unlike many fungus diseases that are worse during rainy weather patterns, this disease is favored by humid, warm weather without rain. Powdery mildew can also be a problem on a variety of other landscape plants such as dogwood, euonymus, gerbera daisy, rose and hydrangea.

Master Gardeners, the time has come for me to bid you all good bye. Beginning in 1976 immediately after college, I began going to work every day hoping make a difference in the lives of people. As a young person beginning a career in a profession that serves people, I was told by someone older and wiser than myself to always remember that people don’t care how much you know until they know how much you care. Thank you all for caring, and I hope my attitude with each of you individually and collectively reflected how much I cared. The Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners Association will continue to serve and thrive because of each of you. Your passion for serving others speaks volumes for how much you care. Let us all look ahead with the greatest amount of optimism possible, and never look back with regrets. Thank each you for making me better as a person. I’m light years ahead of where I was when I came to you all in January of 2010. Thanks also to the LSU/Southern Universities AgCenters for giving me a chance. To the Evangeline, St. Landry, and Lafayette Parish Extension Staffs, I hope I’ve given you all as much as you all gave me. I feel that you gave me all the support and encouragement that a person could ever expect.

​FAREWELL!!!
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Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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Between the Rows

3/1/2016

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USING MEDICINAL PLANTS WITH MARY ANN ARMBRUSTER

This is a departure from my normal column, but I was having a terrible writer’s block – I just could not think of anything to write – so Theresa suggested that I do this instead. I hope you enjoy it. Many of us want to use medicinal plants, but how to use them? It’s fairly simple, so here goes. Before I start, I have to include this NOTICE: The information presented here is meant for educational and historical use only. It is not meant as a substitute for medical diagnosis or treatment.

Today we will talk about infusions. To use plants, we want to extract the compounds inside the plants into a liquid that we can take or use in some way. This extraction is called an infusion. There are many different types of infusions, but the simplest is a tea. A tea is an infusion made using boiling or near-boiling water. If you can make cup of Lipton, you can make an herbal tea.

It’s certainly possible to make tea a cup at a time, but it is easier to make enough for 2-3 days at a time and refrigerate the unused portion, well covered, until needed.

HOW TO MAKE TEAS:
For 1 cup: 1-3 teaspoons dried plant material to each cup of water depending on your preference. For 1 pint: 1 ounce dried material to a pint of water or 2 ounces of plant material to a quart. If you wish to use fresh plant material, use twice as much as you would 

 use dried. Place the plant material into a heat-safe container, bring water to a boil and pour over the plant material. Cover and steep 3 to 5 minutes, strain and use.

HOW TO MAKE COLD INFUSIONS:
This is used for compounds that are heat-labile (those that will be damaged or destroyed by heat.) Use the same quantities as for a tea, but instead of using boiling water, mix the plant material with unheated water and allow it to steep for 30 to 60 minutes, strain and use. As with teas, it is easier to make enough for 2-3 days at a time and refrigerate the unused portion until needed.


HOW TO MAKE DECOCTIONS:
Decoctions are used for hard plant material, like roots, bark or hard seeds. For a decoction, mix the plant material with water in a pot. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for 20 to 60 minutes, strain and use. Refrigerating any unused decoction will keep it good for a few days.


HOW TO MAKE SYRUPS:
Syrups are long-lasting and good-tasting infusions. To make a syrup, start with 2 ounces of dried plant material to a quart of water in a pot. On low heat, simmer gently until the volume is reduced to about 1 pint. Strain out the plant material, then add 1 cup of honey, maple syrup or vegetable glycerin, and mix well. Optional: You can add 1 ounce of brandy to each pint of syrup. This will increase the

shelf-life by acting as an anti-microbial. Syrups will keep for months at room temperature or longer if refrigerated.

HOW TO MAKE TINCTURES:
Tinctures are the most potent infusions and are super simple to make - no heat required. The liquid used can be 80 or greater proof alcohol (usually brandy or vodka, but pure grain alcohol works very well), raw apple cider vinegar or vegetable glycerin.  Alcohol is the most efficient solvent, being able to extract both acidic and basic compounds. Vinegar or glycerin are less efficient, but there are situations in which it is best to avoid alcohol - when the tincture is to be used to treat children comes to mind.

Chop the plant material finely; this is one preparation for which it is best to use fresh material rather than dried. Pack the finely chopped plant material in a clean, dry jar. Pour in the liquid to cover the plant material by 1 to 2 inches. Make sure that the plant material is continually kept under the liquid – use something nonreactive to hold it under the surface of the liquid, if necessary. Store in a cool, dark place and mix by inverting every day or two.

Caution:  Alcohol, especially, can seep from even fully closed containers, and alcohol can damage furniture finishes. To make sure you avoid damage, place the tincture jar on a glass plate or another non-reactive container that will capture any leaks and prevent the liquid from coming in contact with your furniture. Better safe than sorry. 

Continue to mix by turning the container over and over every day or two for 4 to 6 weeks. When the extraction is complete, strain out the plant material, squeezing to salvage as much liquid as possible. The used plant material can go on your compost pile.

​Tinctures are handy to use and only require about 30 drops per dose or two droppers full. If placed in a small bottle, they can easily be carried in a pocket or purse, so it’s best to store them in small dropper bottles. To use, the tincture can be diluted in pre-heated water to make a tea, but the most effective way to take  a tincture is to place the drops under the tongue. Taken this way the medicinal compounds are transferred directly into the bloodstream without having to go through the GI tract (mouth, stomach, intestine…).


HOW TO MAKE INFUSED OILS:
Infused oils are also easy to make and can be used in the kitchen as well as the medicine cabinet. This is one place that dried plant material is MANDATORY. DO NOT USE FRESH HERBS, USE ONLY DRIED! Fresh material contains water; water makes it possible for Clostridium botulinum to grow, potentially leading to botulism. Using only dried materials and oil avoids introducing water into the oil. Without water, the bacterium cannot grow. Here is a link to an article from the University of Maine on

making infused oils: http://umaine.edu/publications/4385e/  Mix the herbs with the oil in a pot and heat gently for 25 to 45 minutes. Cool and strain. Bottle - dark bottles are preferable here. Stored in a cool, dark location the infused oil will last for months. Infused oils can be used in turn to make creams and lotions.

HOW TO MAKE LINIMENTS:
A liniment is made using the same procedure as a tincture, except that it uses rubbing alcohol as the liquid instead of ethanol (brandy, vodka, etc.). This means that the finished product must be used externally only. A tincture could be used externally, but usually isn’t used this way because drinking alcohol is much more expensive then rubbing alcohol. It is more cost effective to make a separate batch for external use. So remember, TINCTURE INTERNAL, LINIMENT EXTERNAL.

Next time look for information on lotions and creams and a very attractive recipe!

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D.

MaryAnn Armbruster, Ph.D. is a certified Advanced Master Gardener and member of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners.

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Gerald's Corner

3/1/2016

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March Garden Tips
​

For vegetable gardeners, as soon as the weather is favorable and the soil is dry if you haven’t already started, you can begin tilling and preparing the soil for your Spring garden!! I was at several garden centers around the Lafayette area during mid–February and gardeners purchasing vegetable transplants and seeds was brisk.

Most gardeners understand planting early does come with some risk from the possibility of freezing, they like a challenge and feel if they can cheat mother nature, they’ll be rewarded with early harvesting of vegetables. The other advantage of planting early is increased production during milder temperatures and usually less pest problems. A free copy of the Louisiana Vegetable Planting Guide can be obtained from the parish LSU Extension Office.

Seeds of the following vegetables can be planted this month: cantaloupe, collards, corn, cucumbers, cucuzzi, lima beans, mustard, radishes, snapbeans, summer squash, Swiss chard, and watermelon. Plant transplants of the following: kohlrabi, peppers, and tomatoes. Mirlitons are planted now using the entire fruit with the sprouted end buried in the soil about 3 inches deep.

This is also the month that warm season bedding plants can be transplanted, so begin preparing the soil in landscape beds. Consider using root stimulants or starter solutions when transplanting warm season bedding plants, and pay attention to plant depth, being careful to set the plants at the same depth they were growing. A one inch layer of an organic mulch will help to suppress weeds, reduce soil compaction, and conserve moisture. It may take an average of a month for bedding plants to become established, so during this time be sure they are not allowed to dry out. Once the root system is established, less supplemental water will be needed. Sometimes after March 15th depending on temperature, it should be safe to plant tender bedding plants such as marigolds, zinnias, blue daze, pentas, celosia, salvia, portulaca, and melampodium.

Continue to plant roses purchased in containers, but bare root roses are still available at various garden centers even though they should have been planted last month. Once bare root roses begin to sprout, take extra care when selecting, planting, and caring for them until they become established. Summer flower bulbs can be planted beginning in late March or early April. Since most of these bulbs are tropical, it may be well into April or May before they begin to make accelerated growth. It is best to wait until April to plant caladiums since it’s preferable to plant caladiums in warm soil.

Established perennials should be fertilized this month. This is most efficiently and economically done by using a granular fertilizer with a 3 : 1 : 2 ratio (a fertilizer similar to 15 – 5 – 10 ) which means 15 % nitrogen, 5% Phosphorous, and 10 % Potassium. In terms of the amount and method of application follow label or packaging directions. After the fertilizer is applied, water the bed to wash any fertilizer granules off the foliage and down to the soil, since many fertilizers contain salts and can burn tender foliage.

As the weather/temperature warms up, lawn grasses will begin to grow and mowing will be needed. Sharpen mower blades as mowing needs become more frequent. However, this is not the time to fertilize lawns since fertilizing lawns while the soil temperature is cold will not allow the grass to efficiently pick up the fertilizer, and fertilizing too early can aggravate brown patch disease. The first application of fertilizer should be around the first week in April. I know it’s common to apply weed and feed products early in Spring, but keep in mind that weed and feed is a blend of a herbicide for weed control and a fertilizer. Instead, it’s preferable to concentrate on broadleaf weed control this month by applying one of the 4 way blend herbicides such as Ortho Weed B Gon or Fertilome Weed Free Zone.

Scout roses for thrips which are a common problem on roses in Spring and early Summer. Thrips are tiny insects that infest the flower buds. Symptoms include buds that don’t open properly, and when the flower does open, the petals have brown scorched edges. Thrips don’t damage the bush but can ruin the flowers. Spray once or twice weekly with Acephate or Mavrik for control. Fertilize rose bushes in early March, and also begin spraying to control insect and disease problems. For convenience there are several products available for rose growers that are formulated with both an insecticide and a fungicide in the same product.
Powdery mildew is a fungus disease that is common on the new growth of many plants that usually begin to show up this month. This disease appears as a powdery covering on the leaves or flower buds. Severe infection can lead to foliage being damaged and flower buds can drop. Look for fungicides labeled for control of powdery mildew, one of which is chlorothalonil.

It is a common practice for some gardeners to apply aluminum sulfate or lime to the soil around their hydrangeas to influence flower color. Aluminum sulfate causes the flowers to be blue , and lime causes the flowers to be pink. Since flower buds should already be present, don’t prune hydrangeas at this time.

Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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Gerald's Corner

2/1/2016

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Hello Master Gardeners,

Recently I’ve been receiving calls and pictures regarding camellia flowers being discolored after opening or some being discolored and only partially opening. On white camellia flowers the flower petals take on a tan to brown color and many fall to the ground. After discussions with Dr. Raj Singh, LSU AgCenter Plant Pathologist , and Director of the Plant Pathology Lab at LSU, we concluded that the majority of the problems were caused by cold injury. 
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​However another problem that mimics cold injury is Camellia Flower Blight which is caused by Sclerotinia camelliae which becomes active during cool moist conditions.These conditions are what Dr. Singh refers to as favorable conditions for camellia flower blight. 
To those of you who had the fortune of sitting through Dr. Singh’s plant pathology class as you received classroom instructions to become a certified Master Gardener, you should have recalled that he said in order for infection to take place there are three things that need to be present: favorable conditions , a host, and a pathogen. When camellias are blooming in cool temperatures with abundant moisture, camellia flower blight is highly probable. 
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Camellias growing in shade where moisture is more abundant are more susceptible. The fact that camellia flower blight mimics cold injury may be confusing to home gardeners because of the similar appearance, but remember, if the petals have a slippery, slimy texture then it’s camellia flower blight. If the discolored petals have a dry leathering feel then in all likelihood it is cold injury. If it is camellia flower blight all infected flowers that fall to the ground should be picked up and discarded. Some gardeners even picked the infected flowers off the plant and discarded them. If this is not done, the pathogen will over winter in the old infected flowers and be there to infect the next crop of camellia flowers.
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I’m also receiving numerous calls from home gardeners regarding a high number of broccoli plants that are bolting or as old gardeners say, going to flower and seed. We see this occurring when these plants are repeatedly exposed to warm temperatures, which is common with late season broccoli. If you recall we’ve had several periods of above normal temperatures and since I’m getting calls from all across Lafayette and surrounding parishes it’s safe to conclude that the warm weather patterns are to blame. Bolting is actually a survival mechanism in certain plants , where by if the temperature ranges are higher than what the plant has been genetically programmed to handle, the plant feels threatened and tries to produce the next generation by flowering, followed by seed production. Some research indicates that to some degree as a gardener these plants can be mulched or watered to keep the roots cool which may minimize bolting. However, I’m not sure if that has been proven! All cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, turnips , kale, cabbage and several others, are susceptible to bolting!!

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One of the most serious diseases of cruciferous crops worldwide is Black Rot caused by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. If the pathogen is present in seeds or transplants, and favorable conditions develop such as wind and rain producing splashing water, it is highly likely that infection will take place. Many gardeners have called and sent pictures of browning of the leaves of broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower within the last month. They should remember the rainy weather pattern we’ve been having and continuing to have. The infection usually begins on the leaf margins where the pathogen enters the plant through natural openings in the leaf or through insect wounds. The leaves begin to take on a tan to brown V shaped lesion in its early stages and progressively moves downward from the leave margin to consume an increasingly larger area of the leaves of these vegetables. This causes plants to sometimes die prematurely, remain small, or lowers the quality of the vegetables produced. Symptoms are sometimes confused with nutritional problems. In the very early stages of development, infected leaves can be removed and applications of copper fungicide can be made to slow the spread of Black Rot.

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Gerald Roberts

Gerald Roberts is a Horticulturist and Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the LSU AgCenter

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