Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners

GERALD'S CORNER

By Gerald Roberts
Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
LSU AgCenter

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March 2015

2/27/2015

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A lot of calls are coming into the office relative to citrus fruit production in home landscape settings. Most of the questions center around what type of citrus is recommended and when is the proper time to plant. It is common knowledge among gardeners that the biggest factor to consider when making a decision to plant citrus is the fact that citrus are directly impacted by cold or freezing temperatures. It is important to note that the age, maturity, health, and type of citrus can influence the extent of the damage. A common saying among older gardeners is that sweet citrus fruit are more cold hardy than sour citrus fruit. Further research conducted by me by consulting the LSU AgCenter’s pamphlet called “Louisiana Home Citrus Production” indicates that the order of citrus in regards to cold hardiness is kumquats and satsumas are the most cold hardy – followed by sweet oranges, navel oranges, grapefruit, with lemons and limes being the least cold hardy. That is why satsumas are so popular in home landscapes followed by sweet oranges. Two of the most popular types of satsumas are “Brown’s Select” and “Owari.” Some sweet oranges that are popular are “La Sweet” and “Hamlin Sweet”. Washington Navel oranges are also popular.

The next question becomes when is the best time to plant citrus trees? Because of the susceptibility of citrus to cold or freezing temperatures it is common to wait until the month of February to plant citrus trees. The idea is that trees planted in February are less likely to be exposed to hard freezes that could severely damage or kill trees. An appealing aspect of citrus production is that once the fruit are mature they can be left on the tree and picked as needed unless there is an extended hard freeze prompting removal of the fruit from the trees.

Surprisingly I’ve gotten eight to ten calls from people that still have satsumas or sweet oranges on their trees and are asking is there any problem with leaving the fruit on the tree. I rarely recommend leaving satsumas or sweet oranges on trees past the month of January. Experienced citrus growers says that leaving fruit on the trees into February and beyond negatively impacts the next crop of fruit because it causes decreases in bloom, which translates into decreases in fruit. Needless to say, for those people who still have not picked fruit off of their trees, they need to pick them as soon as possible so as not to impact the next crop of fruit. Another factor is the warmer the temperatures become the more the quality of the fruit left on the tree may be diminished.            

As I ride around Lafayette Parish on some of my home visits to assess or evaluate landscape problems I’m noticing more improper pruning of crape myrtles. It is not uncommon for some gardeners or landscape maintenance professionals to severely lower the height of crape myrtle by pruning with pruning saws or even chain saws, thus the saying “Crape Murder!” Pruning of crape myrtle should primarily consist of removing any crossing or rubbing branches which should be removed at its point of origin. Any small growth such as suckers that sprout at the base of the trunk or water sprouts that come up on branches, should be removed with hand pruners or loppers. Anytime I see gardeners using a chain saw to prune crape myrtles it tells me that they’re probably going to employ some improper pruning techniques. As Master Gardeners you’ll need to not be shy about giving advice regarding proper pruning of crape myrtles. Improper pruning definitely destroys the natural character that makes crape myrtles so beautiful in south Louisiana landscapes. 

If you’ve ever noticed small pencil size holes neatly arranged in the bark of primarily oak trees but also occasionally on pecan trees, this is caused by a small bird called the yellow bellied sapsucker, a woodpecker that drills holes in the bark of trees. These holes penetrate the bark causing sugary sap to ooze which the sapsucker comes back to feed on, along with any insects that the sap may have attracted. The damage usually doesn’t threaten the tree and no control is recommended or necessary; however, since it is unsightly many gardeners call out of concern for the tree or because they would like to know what caused the holes. 

When buying pesticides be sure that you know what pest you’re trying to control so that you get the correct pesticide. If it’s a fungus disease then you need a fungicide!! If it’s an insect then you need an insecticide!! If it’s a rodent then you need a rodenticide!! Never buy a container of a pesticide larger than you can use within a year or two. I usually tell people that it’s highly possible depending on how it is stored that pesticides older than three years old may have lost most of its effectiveness. Most importantly read all label directions in terms of how to mix and apply. Remember the label is the law and it’s there not only for your safety but the safety of others and the environment!!            

As spring approaches and day and night time temperatures begin to moderate the temptation to fertilize our lawns begins to intensify. However, keep in mind that our lawns are warm season grasses, and until the soil warms its root system, much of the grass won’t be very active in absorbing nutrients. If lawns are fertilized too early, winter weeds that thrive in cool soils will absorb much of the fertilizer meant for the lawn. That is the problem with applying weed and feeds too early. Remember weed and feed materials are a combination of a fertilizer and a herbicide in the same bag. While it is okay to control weeds in late winter and early spring, it’s too early to apply fertilizer. The first application of fertilizer should be no earlier than the first or second week in April here in South Louisiana. Another factor is that as long as we’re having cool night time temperatures in late winter and early spring, the pathogen that causes brown patch disease in lawns is active (especially in St Augustine lawns) and can become very aggressive, especially if we experience a rainy spring. Fertilizing too early will aggravate or stimulate brown patch activity because of the nitrogen in fertilizer. 
HAPPY GARDENING!
GeraldP.Roberts                                                                                                                                                    
Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
LSU AgCenter 1010 Lafayette Street, Suite 325, Lafayette, LA 70501 GRoberts@agcenter.lsu.edu, Office (337) 291-7090 /Fax (337) 291-7099

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February 2015

2/2/2015

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Master Gardeners make important and valuable contributions to their community by working as volunteers through their parish LSU AgCenter Extension Service Offices. I’m always asked by people what type of people does it take to be effective as a Master Gardeners. My answer is generally the same and that is it takes someone who genuinely want to learn, someone with a willingness and desire to help others, and someone who is willing to commit to assisting the LSU AgCenter in educating their community by delivering horticulture information.

However, whether it be the willingness to learn, the willingness to help others, or the willingness to assist the LSU AgCenter it takes COMMITMENT!!! Just as the LSU AgCenter tries to honor its commitment to provide the most effective educational experience to Master Gardeners in Training, it is expected that when you sign up to become a Master Gardener that you not only honor your commitment to meet the requirements of the Master Gardener Class, but also to honor your commitment to complete your volunteer hours. I would go a step further and ask that each new Master Gardener look for an opportunity within LPMGA to get involved as a means of not only to continue to grow and learn but also to help the LPMGA in meeting its commitment to assist the LSU AgCenter in meeting its mission. We need everyone to make this work!!

While we do our best not to be too aggressive in making things mandatory, we hope that you place confidence in our dynamic Master Gardener Association by doing your part to make it work. I’ve always said that when everyone is willing to do just a little for the greater good, it makes everybody’s effort just a little bit easier.  I reach out to each of you individually and to our Master Gardener Group collectively and I ask that you make a special effort to become involved to a greater extent if you’re not already involved. Also as you spread the word about the Master Gardener Program and answer questions about the program, please emphasize to potential Master Gardeners that once they become certified Master Gardeners, their time and talents are very much needed. I think we all want to continue to grow in the area of horticulture and what better avenue to grow than to find experiences within LPMGA to facilitate that growth.

That brings me to another avenue that will create not only opportunity for your personal growth, but also enhance your opportunity as a Master Gardener to help educate others and also assist me with the high volume of horticulture calls that come into the Extension Office from our community. It would also give Master Gardener another option to add to or complete their volunteer hours.  I consulted with Mr. Miles Brashier who is currently serving as the LSU AgCenter’s State Master Gardener Program Coordinator and he feels this procedure creates a good situation for everyone involved, Master Gardeners, people in the community with horticulture interest, and the LSU AgCenter. In the past I was asked by several Master Gardeners that we give consideration to creating an opportunity for Master Gardeners  to connect with the Extension Office and an opportunity for those that would be interested in coming into the Extension Office to take horticulture related calls.

While we’re still working on the details, it will be strictly volunteer, it will be as simple as possible, and you will not be left on an island without support. Even though it can be very intimidating especially with requests for information that you may not be familiar with, you will have the option of telling the caller that you’ll call them back (if you’d like time to do some research), or that you will refer the call to the LSU AgCenter Horticulture Agent.  At the general membership meeting in February I plan to make a brief report regarding the details of how the process will work and answer any questions.  Before that time I will meet with our current President Heather Finley, and I’ll ask her to inform LPMGA’s Executive Board following our meeting, so that after our February general meeting everyone will be on the same page. I plan to follow up my initial discussion with Mr. Miles Brashier just to get his input so that we don’t do anything to create problems for you or the AgCenter.  As I told you’ll at the January general meeting, I’m excited as we begin a new year and looking forward to a very productive year that will continues to  enhance the credibility of LPMGA !!!

As you know, the optimum time for transplanting trees and shrubs here in South Louisiana is late Fall through Winter. That means that the month of February is the last optimum month for transplanting trees and shrubs in our area. When we use the word “optimum” we mean that time frame that enhances a plants ability to survive, become established, and reach it’s productive potential. The reason why we emphasize the dormant period is because trees and shrubs transplanted during this time experience less transplanting shock while dormant which greatly enhances its chances of survival, by allowing the root system to begin expanding and becoming established which helps it to survive a hot and sometimes dry first summer following transplanting.

The second issue that I’d like to discuss is the recommendations when actually performing the task of transplanting. The first is select a well - drained area, also an area that is going to provide the sunlight requirements of the plant. The second is the planting hole itself which if not done properly can lead to rot problems because of our soil type, high water table and the poor internal drainage that exist in some areas. Everything can be done right in terms of selecting the right plant, placing it on the right site, and transplanting it correctly but if the drainage is poor especially during periods of heavy rainfall, water sitting around the root system will greatly affect the plants ability to survive because of high susceptibility to root rot.

One of the main reasons I see that contributes to poor plant performance is planting depth or planting too deep. When placing the plant in the transplanting hole the top of the root ball should be even with the surrounding soil or the existing grade. Anytime the top of the root ball falls below the surface of the surrounding soil there is potential for problems. The width of the transplanting shrub should be twice the width of the root ball.

Finally the only the existing soil  should go back in the hole as a backfill once the plant is in the hole.  It is no longer recommended that soil amendments be added to existing soil. There is research to indicate that the roots system may be reluctant to expand beyond this amended soil which could lead to delayed establishment.

Happy Gardening!!

Gerald P. Roberts

Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
LSU AgCenter
1010 Lafayette Street, Suite 325
Lafayette, LA 70501
GRoberts@agcenter.lsu.edu
Office (337) 291-7090
Fax (337) 291-7099
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    Gerald Roberts

    Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator
    LSU AgCenter
    1010 Lafayette St., Suite 325
    Lafayette, LA 70501
    GRoberts@agcenter.lsu.edu
    Office (337) 291-7090
    Fax (337) 291-7099

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